This week’s Progress Update is like they used to say on Sesame Street “Brought to you by the letter F” as Team Möbius worked on installing the FIRE Suppression System, FANS for extracting air out of the boat and getting Mr. Gee and his new literal Mate the Nogva CPP Servo Gearbox all mounted on their six FEET as well as aligned with the CPP Prop Shaft. Even though there was 1.5 days holiday in the middle of this week for the big Turkish Republic Day on Wednesday and Thursday, our Team was very productive and got lots done so grab a favorite beverage and chair and join me for this week’s Show & Tell of all this Fun work that got done.
FIRE SUPPRESSION SYSTEM:
If you were with us last week you will recall seeing Cihan and Hilmi installing and wiring up the Sea-Fire Automated Fire Suppression System components. This week Hilmi picked up with installing all the wires, making all the connections and testing the automated system out. This is the “brains” of the Sea-Fire system with all the relays for the various shut downs and “firing” the fire extinguisher.
Inside all other parts of the boat we simply have very good manual fire extinguishers which are these cool new type from Maus.
However in the Engine room we and the various ABYC/ISO/CE standards require a fully automated Fire Suppression SYSTEM.
In addition to looking after the automatic triggering of the release of the 3M Novec 1230 extinguishing agent this system must also shut down the engine, close all the vent dampers, turn off the venting fans and sound the alarm. This can also all be triggered manually with a Morse pull cable. Hilmi and Uğur worked closely together as they needed to coordinate between Hilmi laying out the locations on the Port side wall of the Workshop where he wanted to mount the Sea-Fire control box and where he wanted Uğur to cut the slots in the Alucobond panels. The other Bronze box is one of the Kobelt engine control boxes and Hilmi now has the cables pulled through the wall panel slots below where he will be mounting the Sea-Fire control box. He will install the Sea-Fire controller inside this waterproof plastic junction box to keep everything all tucked away and well protected but first he needed to drill all these holes for the cable glands. Here is that junction box with the Sea-Fire box inside now mounted to the wall. Now that the Alucobond wall panels were in place Uğur could install the mounting screws through them into the aluminium frames behind.
The row of Black and Violet boxes up above are part of the Maretron monitoring system and Uğur will later install the L shaped AlucoBond corners to protect them. With the cables all pulled thorough their WT glands and the labels attached, Hilmi could strip the cable cover off to release the individual wires and start making all the connections to the control box for the different shut down relays and other controls. The standards also require that there be a control and indicator lights at the Main Helm which is where this round version is headed. For testing purposes we just used that short ethernet RJ45 cable.
This remote confirms that the Fire Suppression system is On and working properly before it will allow you to start the engine and also allows you to set off the whole system from here as well as silence the alarm. That round remote control head will soon be installed in the angled dashboard up at the Main Helm amongst these other controls.
Once Hilmi and I had it all tested and all was working fine, the Grey ethernet cable you can see plugged in here, goes up to the Main Helm dashboard where the round controller will be mounted a bit later. And that’s it! Everything all buttoned up and ready for more testing.
More lights went in this week including these beautiful beasts which are Hella LED flood lights.
This one will be mounted to the front “mast'” or arch at the Bow to light up the waters directly in front of us and others will be mounted to light up the water along both sides and off the rear of the boat. These Hella Work Lights are a thing of pure beauty and joy to my heart and mind not only for their incredible candlepower but their Black bodies are ribbed cast aluminium and that bracket is all 316 stainless. What’s not to love?!! We also have several of these Italian made Osculati Faro LED spot lights for when we want a more narrow beam to go greater distances. Similar to the Hella lights these ribbed bodies are also all cast aluminium with SS mounting hardware and epoxy sealed wiring to help them survive and thrive in the harsh marine environments and weather we will be subjecting everything to. More “Hella a light” was the arrival of these two LED lights on flexible stalks that will be mounted at each helm for when we need to read something up close. These have both a bright white LED as well as a dimmer Red light to help retain our night vision when on passages. As exciting as all those other lights are to me, THESE are the ones that really make my day as these are my working lights inside my Workshop, Forepeak and Engine Room.
For me and I think most others, there is nothing that beats having GREAT lighting when you are working and these babies are truly amazing in how much bright white light they blast out into all the spaces where I work aboard. All those lumens are augmented all the more as they bounces off all those White Alucobond surfaces on all the walls and ceilings such that the whole space is eXtremely well lit. Just wait till we peel off all that protective plastic film and these surfaces are pure White Light!
For those interested, here is a shot of the back of one of these LED work lights. They would have thousands of great applications and are highly recommended by this worker.
TOWERS of SHOWERS!
Cihan was his usual Productive Plumber self again this week and he has now has these gleaming Stainless Steel “shower towers” all plumbed and working.
This is a slightly different model than ours but it will help you visualize what they look like in action. If I don’t come out of shower session with this then I must be doing something really wrong. To say nothing of how much fun our GrandKids will have with it as there is a matching unit in the Guest Cabin Shower. Which looks like this. The new fittings he needed arrived this week so Cihan was also able to finish mounting these beautiful SS towel wormers that are another work of art and engineering to me. There are also two matching units of these towel warmers, one in the Guest Bathroom and one that will go on the far wall you see here in the Master Bathroom. The four smaller holes you see here (click to enlarge) are for the SS mounting tubes and then the larger ones on the bottom are the threaded SS fittings where the PEX hot water lines emerge. These Turkish made beauties are just fabulous to work with and this square bodied tap to turn the hot water on/off is another good example of the “little things” that make all the difference with both their solid heft being solid SS as well as the squared off design which has them blend into the overall sculptured look and give no indication that they are also functioning taps. One step back to show you the whole towel warmer. And a few more steps back to show you the whole Shower and Bathroom space. The etched glass walls that will form the corner of the Shower where I am standing to take this picture are due to arrive next week and just wait till you see how this space looks with them all installed and lit up! The Bio-Bidet 1000 on our VacuFlush toilets are now all installed along with their controls. This controller is wireless and clips into a small plastic hanger on the side of the cabinet. Or you can run the basic functions with the SS control head you see on the aft left side of the seat and see that all is working well with the LED indicator lights on the Right.
I received a number of queries and comments about these bidet units so I will let the following pictures do all the talking to answer those. Human contact required to avoid any “surprises” when curious onlookers are checking things out. And you can study this better shot of the remote controller to figure out the rest.
Oh, and yes, there is a matching unit for all our guests in their cabin too. Elsewhere in the Master Cabin, Serkan has the templates for the two mirrors on these cabinet drawers temporarily attached to check that they are the just right size before they get sent off to the glass and mirror shop. And he is also making up similar templates for the other mirrors in our Master Cabin such as this one on the inside of the Cabin Entrance door.
Cihan also received the 127mm / 5” ID exhaust hose this week so he got starting installing the first short length underneath the Day Tank on the Starboard / Right side of the Workshop. This relatively short length hose, about 1.2m / 4 ft, connects to the AL pipe welded into the Engine Room wall on the far Left and carries the exhaust gasses over and out the same size AL pipe welded into the side of the hull. These special rubber hoses are able to safely carry the exhaust gasses because they have all been well cooled by the sea water injected into the hot exhaust gas up at the top of the Engine Room.
eXtraction is eXhausting TOO!
As you can see, it was all hands on deck quite literally as the boys got to installing all the extraction fans and dampeners inside the Vent Boxes on the Aft Deck. This is the Stbd/Right side Vent Box where the large rectangular ducts coming up out of the Workshop and the Engine Room exit and there is an extraction fan for each one. This is the Vent Box on the Port/Left side where the opening on the upper Left goes all the way down to the floor of the Engine room and keeps Mr. Gee well fed with clean fresh air. The slotted square on the bottom Right is for the extraction of air out of the Guest Cabin.
The box on its side near the middle directly in front of the slotted opening is one of the demister or mist eliminator units which removes most of the salty humidity in the air before it heads down into the ER. More on that in a moment.
Here is a close shot of the upside down box in the lower Right foreground above and this is an example of how the various extraction fans are attached to their outer facing mounting plates which bolt to the Vent Boxes. Like this. This is an upside down Dampener that Uğur is attaching to its mounting plate which then bolts to the Vent Boxes similar to the extraction fans.
These Dampeners are installed on both the Intake Supply Air going into the Engine Room as well as the Extracted Air being pulled out and they are normally in the closed position so that no salty air is getting into the ER when we are not running Mr. Gee which dramatically reduces the consequences of salty air in the ER most of the time. Here is what one of those Dampeners looks like when mounted into the Vent Box. The Orange box on the far Left of the Dampener is the motorized automated controller that Open/Closes the Dampener plate. And the White round cover you can just make out on the Left side of the Vent Box is to provide access to our hand if you ever need to manually Open/Close the Dampener. Over on the opposite side Vent Box, the Dampener is mounted vertically inside the long rectangular duct mentioned above that takes the fresh air down to the bottom of the Engine Room. Dampener door is closed as you can see in this photo and as part of the start up procedure these dampeners are rotated open by their 24V electric motors and stay that way until just after we shut Mr. Gee down OR when the Sea-Fire system shuts everything down in the case of a fire. I’ve received quite a few questions about these Mist Eliminators or Demisters which remove most of the salty humidity from the air before it goes inside the ER so here are a few close up shots so you can see how these work. This is the rear view and basically the way these work is that these black plastic vanes inside force the air to flow through a convoluted path where the water droplets condense out of the air. Hard to capture on camera but these Black plastic vanes are very complex somewhat wave like shapes inside with equally complex surfaces. These are all the result of years of research and testing apparently to perfect their ability to extract all that harmful salty water vapour which then runs out the little SS drain hole you can just make out in the bottom center of this photo. There is then a plastic tube that takes this extracted water down to the Sea Chest in the ER and back out to sea where it belongs.
See what I mean? eXhausting right?!!
PROPULSION SYSTEM ALIGNMENT:
Lastly for this week let me show you a bit about the night shift I’ve been on this past week working with some expert motor and CPP propulsion system aligners from another shipyard next door. Meet Emre on the Left, Hussein standing on the Right and that arm in the lower Right is ………….
…….. Hayretttin who is busy choosing the right 0.05mm feeler gauge as we are about to alight the output flange of the Nogva Servo Gearbox with the matching flange on the CPP Propeller Shaft.
Of course you have all met Mr. Gee, our Gardner 6LXB many times by now so he needs no introduction. I won’t go into too much detail on this whole alignment process as it is likely not of too much interest to most, but here is what we are working on. The Red flange on the Right side here is attached as you can see to the forward end of the big 65mm OD propeller shaft going aft to the 4 bladed CPP propeller, and the matching Maroon painted flange that it is now butted up against is the flange on the Output shaft of the Nogva CPP Servo Gearbox. The goal is to get the inner faces where these two flanges come together PERFECTLY lined up. After several hours of wrangling the now solidly connected Mr. Gee and Nogva Servo Gearbox assembly into position such that the center of both of those flanges perfectly line up, we now need to use the threaded rods on the six different “feet”, or flexible mounts, four of which attach Mr. Gee to the 25mm thick Engine Beds and then two which similarly attach the Nogva Gearbox to those same Engine Beds.
We use very thin 0.05mm / .002 inch feeler gauges to check 360 degrees around where these two flanges meet as this is the maximum allowable difference allowed. Zero space between them is ideal which we pretty much achieved by nights end with ever smaller adjustments to these six mounting feet. Prior to all this, I had done that centering I mentioned above to get the Push/Pull Pitch rod with the male threaded end poking out of the center of the Prop Shaft on the Right, exactly lined up with the female threaded piston extending out of the Output Flange on the Nogva Gearbox on the Left. There is a hydraulic pump inside the Servo Gearbox, hence the name, which pushes that piston forward and aft as you move the Pitch control lever at both helms. This in turn moves that Pitch Control Push/Pull rod fore and aft which is what is translated into rotational movement inside the hub at the center of the CPP Propeller which thus rotates each of the four prop blades in synch with each other to vary the pitch of the prop from zero which would be like “neutral” no thrust to the boat fore or aft and then at our choosing either rotating the blades and thus increasing their pitch to push the boat either forward or reverse.
Using a dial gauge I was able to move Mr. Gee + Nogva assembly to put the center of that output piston spot on the center of that threaded push/pull rod inside the prop shaft and then rotate the Nogva output flange to thread the rod into it.
There is a precise measurement of how far to thread that rod in so that the pitch rod is centered in its travel which is what you see here, and then I could tighten this lock nut to hold it in that position.
Once this was all done I could mount the two halves of that Red prop shaft flange and do the alignment I described above. Et voila! A perfectly aligned Engine, Servo Gearbox and CPP prop shaft!
Now we take it all apart again after carefully marking the position of the mounting bolt holes in each of the six flexible feet as we need to lift the whole assembly up in the air to give us enough room to drill all those holes in the Engine Bed for those bolts. Next week’s night shift will be doing this and then going through the whole alignment procedure one last time and then bolting the six feet down to their final positions.
I know this is riveting stuff so do stay tuned for all that excitement next week!
Hope this wasn’t all too boring and that you will consider joining us again next week.
The focus this week was on building the aluminium Console for the Upper Helm Station in the SkyBridge (the GO part of this week’s title), getting Mr. Gee his fuel supply, continuing to check off more electrical and interior jobs and prepare our anchor chain for anchoring (the Stop part of this week’s title).
We were delighted to welcome back more members of Team Möbius as they return from the other boats they’ve been working on so let’s jump right into this week’s Show & Tell so you can see it all for yourself.
SkyBridge Helm Station
Here is the design we came up with for the aluminium console that will hold all our navigation equipment for the Upper Helm Station in the SkyBridge. Click to enlarge this (or any image) to see some of the items that will be installed in this console and I’ll put a list of all of these below.
As shown in this layout drawing, the equipment that will be mounted in this console include:
2 Side by Side 24″ LiteMax NavPixel Daylight Readable Touch Monitors
Furuno 711C Autopilot Control Head
Vetus Bow Thruster Joystick Model BPAJ
Maxwell VWC 4000 Windlass Up/Down Control
Kobelt Engine Throttle and CPP Pitch Controls
Kobelt Pitch Gauge
Standard Horizon GX6000 Fixed-Mount VHF Radio
Kobelt Control Switches & Remote Walkabout plug-in socket
SH SCU-30 Wireless Access Point
Exterior Lights switch panel
Engine Stop/Start buttons
Although the SkyBridge area is quite well protected by the solid roof above created by the aluminium frame for the 8 320W solar panels mounted on top, and the removable plexiglass windows which wrap 360 degrees around the whole SkyBridge, it will still be exposed to wind and rain at times so we needed to build a waterproof console to protect all these critical and eXpen$ive electronics. We had been working on the design of this console for a long time and were very pleased to be able to enlist the help of Burak who had been our 3D modeler when we first started working with Naval 3 years ago, to work out the details and finalise this design. One additional design element we needed to accomplish was that this whole console needed to be removable for two reasons. First being that it needs to be removed when we convert the boat to “hunkered down/Canal mode” and lower the articulated roof. And secondly Christine and I want to try out having this Upper Helm Station in different locations in the SkyBridge as we use the boat for the first year or so. We think that its current location at the Aft end of the SkyBridge will work out best but we won’t know for sure till we can live with it in different scenarios and different positions.
Burak sent over all the 2D construction drawings last week and so Uğur jumped right in on Monday morning and spent most of this past week taking this console from start to finish by Friday. Let’s follow along as he works. It would have taken another week or more to send out all the AL plate to be CNC cut and I think Uğur enjoyed the chance to go back to some “old school” ways so he quickly laid out all the parts directly on the AL plate and cut out the pieces with the in-house bandsaw and a cutting disk on his angle grinder. As we have tried to do throughout the design and build of XPM78-01 Möbius, we KISS’ed (Keep It Simple & Safe) the design of this console so there are only 8 pieces in total and they are all made out of 5mm / 3/16” flat AL plate which are easily tacked in place. To provide ready access for installing and maintaining all the electrical connections and components inside this console we made the whole back side a removable plate that will be bolted in place with a watertight gasket. With a quick check that all the dimensions and angles were all correct, Uğur got to work doing all the finish welding.
BTW, for those who might wonder why all the photos of welding have these lines in them it is due to the MIG welders being the newer Pulse type and the camera freeze-frames these pulses. With the welds cleaned up a bit Uğur laid out the various cut-outs for each item to be installed on the dashboard and then cut these out with a hole saw or cutting wheel. We are still waiting for a few switches to arrive but we have all the primary components so Uğur and I did a quick check to make sure they all fit properly before continuing. Next it was time to finalise the location of the console on top of the foundation built into the SkyBridge (and for Cihan our Master Plumber to get in this quick cameo!) The two cushions on the Port/Left side allow someone to comfortably join the person on watch as well as a great spot to lie down for a nap up here. After trying a few different spots we settled on this positioning with the same amount of overhang around the three sides. This is our Llebroc Helm Chair which will soon …….. reside here, in the center of the space behind the dashboard.
This penetration on the inside provides a watertight pass through for all the cables. Once all the cables have been installed and all systems checked that they are fully functional, this and all other penetrations throughout the boat are filled with certified “goo” to create a fully watertight seal. Here is how the Upper Helm Station it looks from the back side. Holding the camera at about eye height here to check the sight lines which are great as you can easily see the whole forward end of the bow anchor area. Whenever we prefer to have an even better close up view of around the boat, we have one of these Kobelt 7176 “Walk-About” remote controllers at both Helms.
With 10m / 33ft of cable, I’m not willing to trust wireless for this critical control, we can stand almost anywhere on the boat from the Swim Platform to the Bow, either side deck and from anywhere in either the Main or SkyBridge Helm areas and have all the controls literally at our fingertips when docking or take this remote controller to wherever we are sitting.
The two side levers control Throttle and Pitch and up on top are controls for Rudder, Bow Thruster, CPP Clutch and Horn. Can’t wait to try all these out on our upcoming sea trials once we launch.
And Yes, Launch Date is still “Thursday”, just don’t ask which one!
We finally have Cihan back full time again (we hope!) and he was his usual busy productive self all over Möbius. Cihan and I started by working on the two heat exchangers ….. …….. that needed to be mounted in the very aft end of the Engine Room. We built in this removable section of the flooring to provide full access to this important area where the prop shaft enters the boat. The composite grid flooring lifts out and then this aluminium floor plate can be unbolted and removed as well. Access is particularly important whenever I need to service the “dripless” Tides Marine SureSeal Drip Free Self-Aligning Shaft Seal that keeps all the water out of the joint where the prop shaft exits the log tube. I will cover more details when we are installing this SureSeal but here is a quick overview of how it works. Today though we wanted to access the very aft ends of the two Engine Beds on either side where we wanted to mount these two Bowman heat exchangers. The red one on the far Port/Left side is for cooling the hydraulic oil in the Nogva CPP Gearbox and the Silver one on the far Stbd/Right side is for cooling the Gardner’s water/antifreeze engine coolant. Both of these heat exchangers have cool seawater being pumped through their outer shells while the oil is pumped through a round “stack” of CuNi (Copper/Nickle) tubes that you can see here in this cutaway illustration. Fun Fact: Bowman is another one of the world leading industrial companies we have found here in Turkey and so it was fun to find that our Nogva Norwegian CPP system came with that Red Bowman Heat Exchanger.
My apologies for getting too busy to get too many photos of this installation of these two heat exchangers but the basic flow of the seawater is that it first enters the Left end of the Silver Heat Exchanger at the top of this photo, exits out the rear and then flows through the Gray (protective wrap) hose on the far Right here where it will enter the aft end of the Red Heat Exchanger at the bottom. Inside the Engine Room, the seawater exits the front end of the Red Bowman Heat Exchanger through another rubber hose that goes up to the Halyard SS mixing elbow on the Gardner’s wet exhaust system and then exits the boat through the large Exit Sea Chest in the ER. Much more to come on all that once we start installing the exhaust system in the next few weeks. Another new plumbing addition that Cihan installed this past week is the small little circulation pump with the White faceplate you can see at the bottom middle of this photo of the underside of the Stbd/Right side Workbench in the Workshop. These Jabsco/Xylem 24V “vario” pumps are very cool and very eXpen$ive but boy do they work well. These are a relatively new pump generation that are super quite with minimal energy consumption, shaftless spherical motor and permanent magnet technology. On Möbius we are using this D5 Vario 38/700B pump to keep hot water circulating through our DHW (Domestic Hot Water) loop that ensures that there is always hot water immediately available to every hot water tap and shower on the boat. No more wasting time and water while you wait for hot water to come out of the sink faucet or shower nozzle!
Speaking of hot water, the Captain aka Christine, is eXtremely eXcited about Cihan installing two of these SS towel warmers; one in each cabin’s Head/Bathroom!
Christine has been wanting to have one of these for years and after a very long and winding road to find these Goldilocks just right versions, she will finally have one in our Master Cabin as will all our guests in their Bathroom. Yet another example of the Turkish manufacturers making eXtremely high quality products, Christine fell in lust for these “Laris” model SS towel warmers from Hamman Radiator. The towel warmers attach to the walls with these very clever SS tubes which Cihan first attaches to the walls using an expanding bolt on the inside of each tube.
And then there are four round SS pegs on the back of the towel warmers which slide into these tubes and are locked in place with the little set screw you can see on the bottom here.
The two SS square fittings the bottom are the water valves to control the flow of hot water through the towel warmer.
Here is what the finished mounting looks like.
Many won’t understand, but to my eye, all of this hardware and the towel racks themselves are just beautiful works of art and engineering that are part of our “boat jewelry” collection on Möbius.
Looking around our Master Head/Shower/Bathroom do your sharp eyes might spot a few other new additions?
One job Serkan just completed is the mounting of those two SS latches now installed on those bottom two cabinet doors underneath where the sink will mount. And if you look very closely you will see that the White Corian countertop has arrived. There will be a clear glass partition that extends up that slot between the shower seat and the ceiling and will be sealed to that vertical surface at the end of this countertop. And what is this new addition that just showed up this week beside the VacuFlush toilet? Aha! That’s the wireless remote control panel for the BioBidet BB-1000 Supreme bidet seat. It clips into a holder mounted on the cabinet so the curious can remove it and discover all the MANY functions available. The same BioBidet is installed in the Guest Cabin as well BTW.
Surely you didn’t think I put the eXplorer in XPM for no reason did you?
More examples of how XPM78-01 Möbius is a true world eXplore can be seen in another new addition this week as Hilmi starts installing all our Vimar “Arké Metal” switches and plug ins. We have designed Möbius to be a true “World Boat” and so she has both 120V 60Hz and 230V 50Hz AC plugs like these throughout the boat. We also have wired CAT7 ethernet plugs spread throughout the boat for maximum internet speeds. This one is tucked away below the “floating” shelf on Christine’s side of our King size bed. And these are what the matching Vimar light switches look like. Of course these will all look MUCH better once we remove all the protective plastic coverings and do a good cleanup prior to launch, but until then we are very glad to have all the interior surfaces covered up while construction continues. And here is Hilmi installing a set of four of those Vimar switches for the LED lights around the stairwell leading down into the Master Cabin. Serkan has also been busy in the Master cabin adding finishing touches such as these solid Ro$ewood handholds on the “Swiss” (as in Swiss Army Knife) door that is the door for both the entrance into the Master Cabin and the full length hanging locker as it is here. He needed to radius both ends of these so that they cleared the door jambs when closed on the Entryway. The upper panel will soon be covered with the same Green/Gray leather you see throughout the Master Cabin walls.
Nihat also had a very productive week as he took on the eXtremely big job of finishing all the exterior aluminium surfaces. We’ve settled on the “brushed” look that these 3M abrasive discs create when used with a random orbital sander such as this pneumatic one in the photo here.
Let us know what do you think of this look but we are very pleased with it.
Feeding Mr. Gee!
I managed to make more time for Mr. Gee again this week and focused on installing his “feeding” system to deliver the Goldilocks just right amount of scrupulously clean diesel fuel.
This is one of his six fuel injectors that have been refurbished to factory new condition by Michael and his crew at Gardner Marine Diesel at the Gardner “factory” in Kent England. Injectors just don’t get much better or simpler than this. NO electronics just a simple supply connection under the Red seal on the Right and a matching return connection on the Left. Each injector slides into the tubular hole you can see underneath the tip of the injector here. Then one of these lever arms is tightened down using the castellated nut just to the Left of the Red cap here. This lever presses the angled end of the injector body into its matching seat inside the tubular hole in the cylinder head and forms a perfect seal to keep all those literally eXplosive forces inside the cylinder where they belong and where they then supply all the mighty “draft horsepower” and torque that Mr. Gee delivers to our propeller. Now each of those injectors need an equally robust set of piping to deliver the diesel fuel to/from them so my next job was to clean up all these steel fuel lines and give them a couple of coats of shiny black epoxy.
Can’t have any bare steel on Mr. Gee that would just rust now can we?! Here is what those shiny Black steel fuel lines look like when they are connected to the bottom outlets on the Fuel Injection Pump and then go up to the injectors in the cylinder heads through the AL valve covers I have set in place here.
Again my apologies for being too busy installing all these fuel components to take more photos but I will take more this coming week and put them into next week’s Progress Update for you.
For now I hope this quick shot of where I left of yesterday (Sat. Oct. 10th) will do.
Yachts Play Games Bula Bula Right?!
Christine and I spent Saturday morning doing a job that believe it or not, we have long been looking forward to; painting the length marking strips on our 13mm / 1/2” galvanized HT anchor chain.
The joy in this job is that it reminds us that in the not too distant future (we hope!) we will be using these marks to tell us how much anchor chain we have let out in the latest anchorage we have just arrived at.
We started by dragging all 300 meters / 328 feet of chain off the factory pallet onto the shop floor and arranging it in 10 meter long loops with paper underneath both ends where we would be spray painting the chain. There are a LOT of different ways to mark an anchor chain and even more opinions about which is best but we have both anchored thousands of time in our marine lives and find that painting different colours onto the chain and then adding some matching coloured nylon zip ties is the Goldilocks just right method for us. We paint a different colour combination each 10 meters / 33’ and to help us remember the distance of each colour we came up with the acronym YPGBR based on the colours of paint we have used this time. As you might figure out from this photo, YPGBR stands for Yellow-Pink-Green-Blue-Red which is the order of the colours we painted onto the chain every 10 meters.
These are the odd numbered 10 meter marks starting with Yellow at the first 10m mark at the top here, then:
Pink @ 30m,
Green @ 50m,
Blue @ 70m
Red @ 90m At the other end of the loops we use a combination of the colours to mark the even starting lengths of;
Yellow/Pink @ 20 meters
Pink/Green @ 40m
Green/Blue @ 60m
Blue/Red @ 80m
Nope! Easy for us to remember when the YPGBR acronym stands for is:
Right?!! For those who might wonder, Bula is the Fijian greeting, always said with great Gusto, which we learned so well from all our years cruising in Fiji
Once the paint dried we flaked the chain back onto the pallet and it is now ready to be pulled aboard into its Chain Bin inside the Forepeak but that will have to wait for next week’s Progress Update here on Möbius.World.
Thanks as always for joining us and be sure to add your thoughts and ideas in the “Join the Discussion” box below.
This week’s Progress Update will be short and sweet as we are still working very shorthanded on XPM78-01 Möbius and it has been another very full weekend of boat related work for Christine and me so it is already late Sunday here as I sit down to write up this week’s Progress Update for you. However, progress is being made and there are interesting new developments to show you so let’s jump right in for this week’s Show & Tell aboard the Good Ship Möbius.
Serkan was onboard for two days this week as he continues to work on the last of the hardware related work in the Master Cabin. On Tuesday he was installing the last of these beautiful SS latches on the doors and drawers on the front Starboard/Right side wall of the Master Cabin. He is down to the last latch on the bottom drawer below the vanity sink that you can see in the bottom Left here. A bit different perspective on Thursday, looking straight down the centerline towards the bow of the boat you can see that the bottom drawer has now been installed along with the two matching latches on the White bottom cupboard doors inside the Head/Bathroom on the far Left.
And Serkan has almost all the Green/Gray leather panels installed now, just the small strips around the Vanity cabinet at the far end. The door of that Vanity as well as the main Head door will soon have mirrors mounted on them to finish this area off. Upstairs in the SuperSalon an exciting new development is now visible. The window frames are now all filed with their plywood templates which will be sent out to the glass company next week so they can cut and prep all the 25mm/1” thick laminated window glass as well as the other glass for the flush Deck Hatches. And the “eyebrow” around the upper SkyBridge.
Still very much a “work in progress” but the whole SuperSalon is beginning to come into view now.
It will be a VERY big day when we finally get all the glass installed onboard and make Möbius fully weathertight for the first time.
Our faithful Dynamic Duo of Uğur and Nihat had another full and productive week. If you were with us last week you’ll remember they were busy getting the ceiling over the Outside Galley on the Aft Deck all fully insulated wtih 50mm EPDM foam and the attachment points for the White AlucoBond laminated sheets that will form the ceiling itself. As with the other AlucoBond panels you’ve seen them mounting in the Engine Room and Workshop, they use these very nice covered screws to attach the AlucoBond to the aluminium L-bar supports. If you look closely at the screw in the upper Left here (click to enlarge any photo) you can just make out the brass threaded washer around the head of the countersunk screw and then the chrome dome cover thread onto that to completely hide the underlying screw head. Here is what the ceiling looks like viewed from down inside the SuperSalon looking up and out the Entryway WT Door onto the Aft Deck Galley.
For those wondering, the White, Black and Red lettering is just a protective film on all AlucoBond panels which will be removed just before we launch to reveal the White anodized aluminium outer surface of all these panels. And here is what it looks like from the other end out on the Aft Deck.
The Black wiring hanging down is for the six LED lights when we are cooking in this Outdoor Galley or dimmed down for safe lighting when entering or leaving the boat. This is the Port/Left Vent Box which served double duty as one of our Outdoor Galley countertops with this SS sink in it.
The rectangular openings are filled with the Mist Eliminator grills and damper system for the Entry Air going down to the bottom of the Engine Room. And this is the matching STBD/Right side Vent Box with the two rectangular openings for the extraction air from the Engine Room and Workshop.
The raised surface on the Left will be the main countertop in this Galley and the lower countertop will soon house the 220V electric Grill/BBQ.
All the countertops will be Turquoise Turkish marble to match that in the inside Galley.
For the observant ones who might wonder, the two small outlets on the Aft facing bottom of this Vent Box on the far Right are for the quick connect water fittings for our Deck Wash hoses; one for Fresh Water, one for Salt. However the most exciting new milestone Nihat and Uğur hit his past week was that they started on the final cleanup of all the bare exterior aluminium surfaces. Nihat spent most of the rest of the week working on the AL surfaces surrounding the SkyBridge.
This is a two part process, first grinding all the welds to be either flush or nicely radiused corners such as you can see Nihat has done here on the frame for the SkyBridge Console and the surrounding interior walls. Then he moved on to all the AL surfaces and welds on the surfaces outside of the SkyBridge itself. Such as the tops of these “horns” on either side of the Front hinged Solar Panel bank and the outer walkway that runs down the sides of the SkyBridge. Uğur took on the daunting task of grinding down all the welds on the outside surfaces of all the Hull plates. There are three longitudinal runs of welds down each side where the different thicknesses of hull plates butt together. The top one he is working on here is the only “hard chine” or corner on the hull which is a bit trickier as the weld needs to be ground down flush to each plate and then have a nice radius for the turn of the corner. It is difficult to capture in photos, especially at this early stage but this will give you an idea.
The surface on the far Right here is part of our experimenting with different kinds of final swirl patterns for the final finish to see which one we like the best. This shot will help you see how the process of finishing this corner seam goes. The corner on the far Left is close to what the finished chine or corner will look like and as you move to the Right towards Uğur you can see the progression “backwards” through the process with the raw untouched weld on the far Right. This longer view will help you understand the “daunting” part of Ugur’s job! 24 meters / 78 feet down each side suddenly becomes a VERY real and very big number when you are taking it on one centimeter or inch at a time and then three of those lengths (one for each weld seam, on each side. I’ll let you do the math! The maximum sheet size for aluminium plates is 6m/19ft so there is also a vertical seam where each end of the plates butt together that also needs to be ground flush. And up at the Bow there are a lot of transitions where the different hull plate thicknesses, 10, 12, 15, 20 and 25mm thick all come together where they meet up wtih the 25mm thick Keel Bar and that nice round transition up at the top where it wraps around our big solid AL “nose” cone for the snubber line when at anchor. By quitting time on Friday though Uğur and Nihat has already done their first passes of their welds on the Stbd/Right side so that was a LOT of progress in just a few days. Lots more to come next week so stay tuned as I show you the continued evolution of finishing the hull.
The newest member of our growing family of Victron equipment finally arrived and got installed this week. It is the newest Victron Blue box that you can see in the bottom Right corner of this AL panel in the Forward Port corner of the Basement.
If you click and zoom in on this or the photo below, you can see that this tiny Cerbo GX box provides us with communication ports for USB, Wi-Fi, Bluetooth and a MicroSD slot as well as the Victron VE.Can nd VE.bus connections.
We have had Victron equipment on our previous boats for many years with great success but one area that has been lacking is their integration in communicating with each other and the whole GX line is helping to resolve that. The Cerbo GX is also the newest bit of kit from Victron and makes a huge leap forward in getting all our Victron equipment onto our N2K network as well as bringing all our Victron into a much more integrated system. Just around that front Port corner is our “Solar City” wall where all 14 of our Victron SmartSolar 100/20 MPPT controllers which connect to each of our 14 320Wp Light Tech solar panels. The Gray box is the junction box for all the wiring and the 14 circuit breakers for the DC outputs of each MPPT controller.
Diagonally opposite on the Stbd Aft corner, we managed to steal our Plumbing Wizard Cihan back for one day and he finished installing the last 2 Whale Gray Water Tank pumps. This pump extracts Gray water out of the integral AL tank below and pushes it out the Sea Chest that you can just barely see on the far Left here.
Given that we are rarely in marinas and on anchor, the vast majority of the time our Gray Water (sinks & showers) goes directly to an exiting Sea Chest but when that’s not allowed, the Grey Water is stored in one of our three Gray Water tanks and hence the need for this Whale pump to empty those tanks when we are out at sea.
The big Clear/White tank on the Right is our Potable Water tank which ensures that we always have at least 150 litres of pure water to use even if we should somehow loose all access to the 7100L/1875USG of fresh water in our six integral AL tanks in the bottom of the hull.
Some of that fresh water goes into this HazMat Locker on the Port side of the Swim Platform for our Aft Shower. As you can see here we have hidden the shower mixing valve and head inside this locker to keep it out of the way and protected from daily UV and salt water. Cihan has mounted a holder for the shower spray head inside here as well so it is easy to just open the locker and grab the shower head to rinse off after a snorkel exploration or for a nightly shower. There will be another showerhead mount up on the Aft railing so you can have a hands free shower as well for shampooing your hair or whatever. Inside on the front Stbd/Right side of the Workshop by the Day Tank, Cihan was also able to install these two Black hockey puck shaped Maretron FFM100 Fuel Flow Meters. The upper Left Fuel Flow Meter is on the Fuel Supply line going into the dual FleetGuard 2-stage fuel filters and the one on the lower Right.is on the Return Fuel line from Mr. Gee our Gardner 6LXB engine. Having these high precision flow meters allows us to know the exact amount of fuel being consumed at any time and helps us run Mr. Gee at his maximum efficiency at all times. And if you were to bend down and take a peek underneath the Day Tank you would see this latest addition Cihan has made out the bottom of the Sump on the Day Tank. The Black threaded nipple you see here is where the WIF or Water In Fuel sensor will be installed. Being heavier than Diesel fuel, water always sinks to the bottom so if we ever get any water in our fuel is will quickly find its way down to the bottom most point and send us a WIF signal and sound an alarm.
If you go back and look two photos above at the FleetGuard Fuel Filters you will see that each of the Fs19596 Fuel Filter/Separators has their own WIF sensor in the bottom so we are sure to know if water ever shows up in the fuel at any time and we can promptly get rid of it before it has any chance to get near Mr. Gee.
Speaking of Mr. Gee, I was able to spend more time working on him this past week focusing on timing and plumbing so let’s head over to the Engine Room to take a look.
This was an exciting new milestone for Mr. Gee and me as I finally got to mount this Fuel Injection Pump and Cam Box assembly taking up most of the Port/Left side of Mr. Gee. If you look at the far front end you can see the PTO (Power Take Off) shaft coming out of Mr. Gee which turns the fuel injection camshaft that in turn created the high pressure that goes up to each injector sprayer at just the right time. At the aft or flywheel end of the Gardner it is Grand Central Station for all these Copper & Brass lubrication oil pipework’s. They all come together here where the cast iron Oil Filter acts as the traffic cop for all the oil coming and going to the rest of the engine. Many hours of “pipe wrangling” later, this is how the pipework’s look when all connected to the Oil Filter on the top Right here and then going heading on to their connections on the other end to the crankcase, oil cooler which has its own dedicated oil pump which is the Burgundy painted unit extending out of the AL Cam Box in the rear Left here. I won’t bore you with all the details, but Gardner engines have multiple “timing” settings that are critical to get absolutely spot on for the engine to run properly. The timing of when each intake and exhaust valve needs to open and close is one example that I tackled this week. The requirement is that the Intake Valve opens at 16.25 degrees Before Top Dead Center and the Exhaust closes at 11.75 degrees Aft TDC. But how do you measure and set to such accuracy? The method I came up with was to put a piece of masking tape on the outer circumference of the flywheel covering the distance between the two precise lines punched on at the Gardner Factory to mark TDC and 25.8 degrees BTDC which is for timing the fuel injectors. Then I peeled off the masking tape and laid it out on a flat AL surface where I could accurately measure the distance between “zero” at TDC and the 25.8 degree line with my digital Vernier calipers which gave me the numbers I needed to figure out how many mm one degree of rotation is. Pretty simple math that even I could figure out. It was 127.7mm from the TDC line to 25.8 degrees so 127.8 / 25.8 = 4.872mm = 1 degree. Easy to then mark off the distances for the 16.25 degree and 11.75 degree marks. Now all I had to do was put put the masking tape strip back on with the TDC mark on the tape matched up with the TDC mark on the flywheel and then mark the flywheel at the 16.25 BTDC and 11.75 ATDC lines and then put a center punch mark at each one and scribe a line through them. Lining these marks up with the reference line you can see scribed into the top and bottom of this opening in the flywheel housing and I can turn the flywheel to align these marks and precisely adjust the valve timing at each point.
That will be where I start tomorrow (Monday) morning so I’ll let you know how that works out in next week’s Progress Update.
So this is the parting shot of Mr. Gee when I left him last and where I will start tomorrow morning. And my first order of business will be to find the slob that dribbled that bit of Wellseal gasket sealer on the top of the cam box! Oh wait, never mind, I just caught my reflection in the monitor and I found him! Thanks for joining me here on this week’s Show & Tell for the week of September 27 to October 3rd, 2020. Really appreciate you taking the time to follow along and I sure hope you will add your comments, questions and concerns in the “Join the Discussion” box below.
Starting with the biggest news first; Christine and I took a much needed “mental health day” by renting a car and driving up the coast for an overnight getaway in a lovely little area we’ve been to before that is only an hour’s drive from our apartment in Antalya. We’ve been working non-stop seven days a week for the past six months and thought it would be smart to take a brief break from boat building.
We are very fortunate that the Antalya Free Zone and our apartment are at the very far West end of the city of Antalya that stretches over 30km along the long crescent shaped coastline of the Gulf of Antalya you see here. The mountains rise up around us less than 1km from the beach and we only drive about 2km SW to put us on a fabulous coastal road along the tree lined rocky coast.
Christine found a fabulous little cabin for our getaway in a little village which in the 60’s and 70’s was the center of an area filed with “hippies” from around the world who built a lot of treehouses which have now evolved into little resorts with 2-10 small cabins on the property. So I left the shipyard very early Friday afternoon at 15:30 and we packed up the pups and some snacks and were on the coastal road by four. We checked into our little cabin and then spent a few hours walking through the small village along the river front which filled with lots of arts and crafts shops, cafes and restaurants which led us down to the pebbly beach where our boat dogs Ruby & Barney enjoyed being back to salt water beaches after almost three years of being dirt dwellers with us.
As you can see in the photo above, the beaches are as usual jam packed with other people.
The little “resort” we were at was run by a lovely Turkish family who cooked up a fabulous dinner that evening in an open air patio where we were almost the only guests to enjoy the owners excellent selection of jazz music during our long and leisurely dinner. Our host family again delighted us with a classic Turkish breakfast the next morning and we spent the rest of the day driving along the coast and up into the mountains to explore everything from Lycian tombs (click photo on left to enlarge) to mountaintop Roman ruins complete with amphitheatre and acropolis. We treated ourselves to dinner at our local marina which is only a few blocks from our apartment and the whole experience felt like much more than just an overnight getaway that really helped recharge our batteries for the final push to finish Möbius and Launch!
Back at Naval Yachts, it was another week of disappointedly limited progress on XPM78-01 Möbius herself as their other boat projects seem to take precedence. The bright spot though was that our dynamic duo of Uğur and Nihat make a LOT of progress on the Davit Arch as they finished welding the Davit Arch onto the Aft Deck and it is now ready for rigging.
In the Master Cabin, Serkan continued his single handed work installing the last of our favorite SS latches and he and Sinan completed installing the leather covered panels on the upper cabinet doors and the Bureau of Drawers. Out on the Aft Deck, with Uğur welding the Davit bases to the deck, Nihat turned his attention to installing the EPDM foam insulation in the overhead roof and the big ER Deck Hatch.
So grab a comfy chair and a favorite beverage and join me for this week’s Show & Tell Progress Update aboard XPM78-01 Möbius.
Might as well start with the star of this week’s Show & Tell; the Davit Arch!
Retrieving any dinghy in rough weather can often be eXtremely dangerous so we have been working since the early design stages with Dennis over three years ago now, to design a Davit system that is as safe and as fast as possible.
Christine and I hope that our fellow cruisers who have launched and retrieved their share of dinghy’s and tenders will weigh in with your thoughts on this system by adding your comments and questions in the “Join the Discussion” box at the end of the blog.
First a couple of quick renders to show how we’ve designed this somewhat unique launch/retrieval system for the jet drive Tender to Möbius which you’ve seen being built in the previous weeks.
We had a very good hinged Davit system I had designed for the aft end of our previous sailboat that worked extremely well to launch and retrieve our 4m/13’ aluminium bottom RIB in under a minute so we took all the lessons learned there and used them to help guide us in the much more greater challenge of having a similarly safe and fast Davit system for our now 5m / 16/5’ 1100Kg/2400lb aluminium inboard diesel jet drive Tender. Right now Möbius is sitting too close to the boat next to it inside the shipyard to be able to do a dry run lifting the Tender On/Off the boat so we will have to wait until we launch to find out in real world terms how well this design is going to work. However, between the two of us, Christine and I have cruised for many decades now and have launched and retrieved dinghy’s thousands of times spanning the full spectrum of different sizes and types of dinghy’s and tenders using an equally wide range of davits and we think this Davit Arch system will prove to be the safest and easiest to use Davit system we have ever used. Stay tuned for that real world testing report in the next few months.
As you can see we have used the same type of “ladder” construction for the Davit Arch as on the Main Arch as this style has proven to be a Goldilocks combination of strength to weight and we also really like the overall visual esthetic of this matching pair of arches and how well it fits in wtih the overall eXpedition look of XPM78-01 Möbius. I updated the design just before we ordered the aluminium to make the arch a three piece assembly that bolts together very simply using two doubler plates (light blue in the model) at the transition between the vertical legs and the horizontal beam. This allows us to dismantle the arch and take it down completely either in what we refer to as “Hunkered Down” mode in preparation for an impending cyclone (ask us how we know!) or for “Canal Mode” when we want to eXplore inland canal systems found throughout the world that have bridges with height restrictions lower than our air draft with the Main Arch and Skybridge roof and Davit Arch up. Raising/lowering the Tender will be a very simple two stage operation and I will explain this all in much more detail wtih photos in a future Weekly Update when we start doing the two sets of rigging.
1. One set of rigging will move the angle of the Davit Arch itself from the near vertical Cyan coloured position you see in the first render above that puts the Tender fully up on deck and then lets the Davit Arch move sideways towards the Port/Left side until it reaches the Purple coloured position where the Tender is now clear of the Deck.
This rigging will be an all Dyneema setup starting with two attachment points at the Forward/Aft end of the overhead beam connecting to a a single line extending over and down through a turning block straight across the Deck on the Starboard/Right side Rub Rail and then lead to the big EST 65 Lewmar electric winch in the middle of the Aft Deck.
2. The second rigging will be a double set of vertical hanging lines to raise/lower the Tender in the Davit. When the Tender is up on Deck these will raise/lower the Tender from its chocks and when over the side it will raise/lower the Tender from the water. This will also use Dyneema line attached to a bridal clipped to four attachment points inside the hull of the Tender leading up to a block and tackle handing down from the Front and Aft ends of the overhead beam and leading back down to two EST40 Lewmar manual winches mounted inside of each vertical Arch leg.
With all that in mind let’s go see how Uğur & Nihat, aided by their student intern Omer, made this all come together this past week. I will use the same technique as many seemed to like in covering the build of the Tender; a rapid fire set of photos with just a little bit or text along the way. Here goes………………….
If you would like to review the building of the various components of the Davit Arch system you can look through the past 3 weeks of posts which covered their construction. This week Uğur began by machining the two large cylindrical Hinges; one at the base of each vertical leg of the Arch.
He had welded the two Base Plates out of 20mm/ 3/4” AL plate a few weeks ago so now he was ready to machine the 100mm / 4” OD aluminium cylinders that fit between the two triangular sides on the Base Plates and the two SS Hinge Pins that slide through to create the Hinge. KISS, Keep It Simple & Safe design for the whole hinge with these two SS Hinge Pins that have an end cap bolted on to keep them in place and snug up against the sides of those triangular support arms on the Hinge Plates. While the Hinge Pins were being machined, Uğur and Nihat mounted the AL cylinders into the holes in the 25mm / 1” thick plates at the base of each vertical leg. Some scrap pieces of AL were tacked on to hold the cylinder in perfect alignment and then welded them fully in place with multiple passes on each side. All three parts now complete and ready to be bolted together to form the completed Davit Arch. Aligning the holes in the two doubler plates. And securing them with six 16mm / 5/8” bolts. Torquing down all the bolts, Hinge Base Plates ready to be attached with their SS Hinge Pins. Like this. et Voila! The Davit Arch is upright for the first time and ready to be moved up onto the Aft Deck of Möbius.
But how do we do that when the forklift can’t lift the Arch up high enough??? Simple! Uğur quickly fabricates this Forklift Crane eXtension (patent pending) using some scrap lengths of 8” square steel tubing with a chain hoist and block hung from the top and the base jammed into one of the forks of the forklift.
Oh, and a couple of strong men to help steady the Arch in place. Up Up Up goes the Arch …….. ……… as Uğur inches the forklift into the very tight space between Möbius and Twinity, the big composite catamaran hiding behind the scaffolding and plastic on the Right here. The Forklift was till a wee bit too short for the Aft Hinge Base Plate to clear the deck but some pry bars and muscle helped to raise it the last few inches and the Davit Arch was no up and ready to be positioned precisely on the Aft Deck. The laser level and a long tape measure allowed us to get each Hinged Base Plate in the same position that we had worked out on the 3D model. And each plate was tacked in place so we could do some real world measurement and testing to make sure the somewhat complex geometry all worked out as in the 3D model for getting the Tender to clear the outer edge of the Port/Left Rub Rail and then get it fully on Deck to meet the requirement that no part of the Tender extends out past the vertical line of the outer Rub Rail. A worms eye view from the Swim Platform looking up the Aft Vertical leg of the Davit Arch and a good vantage point to see how the Davit Arch hinges on the Base. Our digital level was a big help in checking the angle of the vertical legs when they are in the fully upright position where the Tender will be Lowered/Raised on the Aft Deck.
We designed this to be just a bit less than vertical so there was always a bit of weight on the rigging when the Tender was hanging from the Davit Arch so the Arch would start to move as you loosened the line on the winch and belayed the line to move the Tender sideways and over the Port side where it can be lowered into the water. Now I needed to see exactly where the Centerline of the keel of the Tender would be when lowered onto the Aft Deck so I scrounged around the yard and found two of these weights. Not sure what they are or used to be but they worked just perfect to be Plumb Bobs that I could string from the top of both ends of the Davit Arch and mark the spot on the deck with my felt pen when the Plumb Bob string was exactly vertical. With the forward and aft Plumb Bob points marked, a laser level and a 6 meter length of aluminium L-Bar provided enabled me to lay out the full centerline on the Aft Deck and then use this as our reference line to measure the position of the Davit Arch and Tender as they moved from fully onboard to fully off the Port side. It took me several hours of laying out all the positions of the Tender and its clearances over the side as well as clearing the Port Vent Box you see off to the Left of the front Hinge Base.
We tried out about three different positions and tacked the bases in each one as you can see evidenced here with some of the previous tacks that were ground off so we could reposition and get that Goldilocks just right spot. You can see some of the different locations and colours I marked out on the deck until I though it was just right. and gave Uğur the go ahead to weld them fully in place. Here is what the Forward Leg of the Davit Arch looks like now fully welded in place. And here is the Aft leg of the Arch now fully welded in place just inside the stairwell down to the Swim Platform. As mentioned up in the beginning, the Tender is lifted Up/Down in the Davit Arch via two of these EST40 Lewmar winches. This is the Aft winch. And this is the Front Winch. These EST40 winches have two speeds and are self tailing which should make lifting the Tender up off its deck chocks and out of the water very easy to do. Once the Tender has been lifted up high enough for its bottom to clear the side deck, moving the Tender sideways onto the Aft Deck is even easier using this much larger and electric EST65 Lewmar winch. You can now visualize how this single line from the winch goes up to the two bridle lines that go over to the front and aft ends of the Davit Arch. And you can now see one of several uses for those two 50mm/ 2” thick aluminium Fairleads extending up out of the Starboard side Rub Rail. Once we have the Tender strapped down into its chocks on the Aft Deck all the weight comes off the Davit Arch and I wanted to make sure that it was well secured when we were on passages. Uğur came up with this simple design of two plates welded to the sides of the roof that sandwich the front vertical leg and …… …. is then captured when the Arch is fully raised and rests against the forward side of the Roof overtop of the Aft Deck Galley. We will make up a pin to slide through the two sandwich plates so that the Arch could not come loose and I may make this with an eccentric cam so I can lock the Arch tube tight against the rubber bumper that will be glued to the Roof edge and make for a nice tight holder that won’t rattle or move. It is difficult to photograph the overall Davit Arch so I climbed up on the racks that separate the far bay in the shipyard to get this photo looking down at the Aft Deck of Möbius and Twinity off to its side.
Hope this helps to also give you a better sense of size and scale to the Aft Deck, Swim Platform, etc..
AFT DECK INSULATION:
In between building the Davit Arch, Nihat got busy putting in the 50mm / 2” thick EPDM foam insulation on the underside of the AL roof that extends out overtop of the two Vent Boxes.
These two Vent Boxes are primarily there to bring fresh air in and stale air out of the Engine Room and Workshop but we put them to double use as our Aft Outdoor Galley by making their tops out of the same Turkish Turquoise marble as in the main Galley and installing a nice SS sink on one side and our electric BBQ Grill on the other. Up to now, the underside of this overhanging roof looked like this and so Nihat got busy filling in all those channels with 50mm thick EPDM foam insulation. Like this. Prior to putting in the EPDM foam, he welded in all the short lengths of aluminium L-bar you see here …. that will be used to attach the White Alucobond ceiling panels which they started cutting out down on the shop floor beneath. This is a view of that ceiling looking up from inside the SuperSalon through the main entrance door. And while he was in an insulation mood, Nihat removed the large AL deck hatch overtop of the Engine Room and glued in all the 50mm thick EPDM onto its underside. As with the rest of the walls and ceiling in the ER, this EPDM will next be surfaced with White Alucobond screwed to those AL L-Bars he has welded into the frame of the Hatch.
Last but not least for this week let’s go check out what’s been happening with the interior of Möbius.
The Captain is VERY happy to see these two SS towel warming racks finally show up at our apartment after months of searching to find them, putting through the order, getting them through Turkish Customs and finally getting them delivered. They are both the same and one goes in our Master Head/Bathroom and one in the Guest Cabin Head. Beautifully made, this is one of the brushed 316 SS valves that connects the towel rack to the SS Hot Water fittings mounted in the walls. Can’t wait to show you what these look like when they’ve been installed so do stay tuned for that in a future episode here. Serkan our Hardware guru, continued with his installation of those lovely SS latches I’ve been extolling ad nauseum the past few months. He is now down to the last of these as he installs the final four on these lower cabinet doors on the Starboard side of the Master Cabin. With so many to install and the need for each latch barrel to be in just the right spot, he has build this little jig to make it easier to drill the pilot hole for each latch. Sinan had previously covered the panels for all the upper cupboard doors and the Bureau of Drawers with their beautiful Green/Blue leather and Serkan now has them all mounted and installed all their SS latches. Looking forward along that same side with the Bed platform on the Bottom Left and the Shower/Bathroom Upper Left, you can see how the Master Cabin is starting to come together. Bathroom door now hung and most of the Bathroom cabinets in place waiting for their Corian countertops and then the iridescent blue glass sink can be installed. Same style glass Blue sink is in place in the Vanity at the very front end of our Master Cabin. The upper part of the door will soon have the same Green/Blue leather panel installed along with the door handle that will look like this. Which is actually the handle installed on the “Swiss” double acting door for the Entrance to the Master Cabin and the tall Wardrobe on the Left. I detest drafts, squeaks and rattles so all the interior doors have these silicone based seals inserted into thin slots cut into the corner of each door jamb. As is so often the case it is the small details like this that make the difference between good and eXceptional and I smile every time I feel the soft squish as I close one of these doors and feel them seal tight as the door latches closed.
In the Absolutely Must Have category as well as the “Don’t ask me how long it took to get these here” category, it put an even bigger smile on our faces when these Crosby anchor shackles finally arrived. Our anchor chain is 13mm / 1/2” but we were able to upsize the critical link between the chain and the anchor to this 16mm / 5/8” shackle. One of the key bits of kit that truly help us Sleep Well At Night or SWAN as we often call it. And THAT my family, friends and followers is a wrap for the week that was September 21 to 26, 2020. Hope you enjoyed this week’s Progress Update and PLEASE let me know your thoughts, concerns and questions in the “Join the Discussion” box below.
Thanks for joining and I hope to see you here again next week.
The “skeleton” version of Team Möbius was leaner than ever this past week here at Naval Yachts as we are down to just two part time workers onboard Möbius this past week. However, along with Christine and myself and our Dynamic Duo of Nihat and Uğur we all put in a very full week and they made great progress in finishing all the “hotworks” of welding up the Tender.
So this will be another shortened version of these Weekly Progress Updates but I’m delighted to share all I have with you.
I will leave the largest progress on the Tender for the end this week and so let’s jump in first to what did get done this week on the Interior of Möbius thanks to the couple of days that our Sparky Hilmi and our Hardware guru Serkan were onboard.
I’ve received a lot of comments and questions (thanks!) about these bits of boat jewellery that masquerade as our eXtremely solid latches on all our cabinet doors and drawers and we like them more every time we see them and start to use them. For those who have not seen these latches before they are solid 316 SS and work simply with a light one finger lift like this. When you add up all the drawers and doors in both cabins, the Galley, the Corridor Office and the Salon we have a LOT so Serkan has been a busy boy getting these all done. It might sound as simple as “drill a hole and thread the latch body in place” but it is actually very eXacting and finicky work to get the holes in just the right location so the latch mechanism lines up. Adding to the challenge all the Rosewood doors and drawer fronts have already been finished and polished so drilling these holes without any splintering or pull outs takes some finesse. But Serkan is appropriately OCD when it comes to the quality of his work and hey now as almost all the latches installed but for a few in the Master Cabin. Such as these two drawers underneath Christine’s Office Desk. These ones in the Galley Drawers, Galley Garage doors,
I hope to be able to show you all the latches in the Master Cabin in next week’s Progress Update. Up at the Main Helm, Serkan and Hilmi worked together to mount the em-trak Class A AIS I mentioned last week.
It is the rectangular screen you see here in the upper Right corner of the Black leather ceiling overtop of the Main Helm.
Another example of those “how hard can this be?” jobs as there are a lot of different cables that Hilmi had to run from a lot of different locations on the boat with the AIS antennae being up on the Main Arch, the dedicated AIS GPS head up on the front Port side of the Pilot House, data cables going to the N2K system and +/- 24V cables to power the whole thing.
Serkan then needed to put the hole for all these cables in the Black leather covered removable ceiling panel overhead of the Main Helm and then attach the holding bracket that the em-trak AIS unit attaches to.
Positioned for clear viewing whether seated or standing at the Helm and the whole unit can also pivot and tilt so we can orient it to keep an eye on when eating at the Dinette Table or in the Galley.
Since we first started installing them, I have also received a lot of questions and comments about the Deck Hatches I designed and we built in house here at Naval Yachts. Boat owners, especially those of us doing long passages, typically have a love/hate kind of relationship with Deck hatches. Just Love all the light and fresh air they bring in BUT they almost all start leaking relatively early in their life.
Of course, Mr. Murphy ensures that when they do leak, that water will always land in the most annoying spots such as in your face as you sleep, soaking your bed or seats or dripping onto electronic gear. Ask me how I know??!!!! Therefor, one of our priorities when we were designing Möbius was to make sure that we had eXtremely Leak Proof Hatches! After many months of research and sketching, this is the design I came up with in my favorite 3D modeling program, Fusion 360. These two section views shows some of the key features to ensure these stay fully waterproof with large self draining gutters around the flush mounted 15mm glass lids and edge seals around the inner frames. I spent a LOT of time searching for the Goldilocks edge seals and finally found them at Trim-Lok in the USA which makes the seals for many automotive manufacturers and other industries. Trim-Lok has a great site that allows you to custom design your own seals with an interactive “Hatch Seal Product Builder” where you chose details such as thickness of the “edge” the seals will attach to which in our case is the 8mm thick upper vertical edge of the aluminium inner hatch frames. Then you chose which side, A, C or E you want the “bulb” part of the EPDM rubber seal to attach to and the width or “leg length” of the grippy rubber U-section you want. I designed these Inner Frame of the Hatches and then the Trim-Lok Hatch Seals such that as you close the Hatch Lid, the upper rubber bulb part of the seal is compressed to the Trim-Lok specifications for the just right and maximum sealing.
Once you have your seal all designed you just specify things like colour, type of rubber and how many linear feet you want and they ship it to you all coiled up in a box. It is always a treat when I can work directly with the manufacturer and it was a great experience working with Trim-Lok to design and build the Goldilocks Hatch Seals for Möbius.
This is what those Trim-Lok seals look like in the real world aboard Möbius. Pretty self explanatory; the deck surface is on the far Left here and then you can see the deep Gutter formed by the Outer AL Frame and one of the two drain holes in the bottom. Christine and I spent some time last week doing a test fit installation of the Trim-Lok seals on this one hatch up in the ceiling of the “doghouse” overtop the entryway into the Workshop off of the Swim Platform. 3D modeling and custom Hatch Seal Builder tools are great but they are still all theoretical so we were anxious for this real world fitting. Fortunately the seals and the hatches worked even better than we had hoped. The “squish” was just right both for maximum sealing as well as the just right about of resistance as you lock or “dog” the hatch handles down.
Just to up the challenge, I added some other requirements for this design such a having their glass tops be flush with the AL decks so they are no edges laying in wait to bite your toes as you walk around on deck usually in bare feet. Perhaps even more importantly, no edges to snag lines and ropes.
However the #1 feature attracting me to Flush Hatches is that when you take on big waves breaking over the bow or sides, flush hatches have no edge for this deluge of water to press against the seals as it all runs straight overtop.
And If I’m going to have no protrusions of the Hatch Lids, then surely I had to also get rid of the Hinges right? So the renders above and on the Left show how I made the hinges disappear when the Hatches are closed. Recently I completed what I felt was the Goldilocks design for the latches and handles for these 10 Deck Hatches and had them all CNC milled from billets of solid aluminium I had on hand.
Hand sketching is my preferred method of thinking through a design and coming up with lots of alternative ways of meeting my design goals. These are two of my early sketches for the Hatch Handles and Latching system that I ended up with. Once I have the basic design details worked out in my sketches I then move over to Autodesk’s Fusion 360 ** to work out the precise details and end up with a fully developed 3D model that can then talk to the CNC milling machine to make them. ** Full Disclosure, I was privileged to work for Autodesk Inc. for over 25 years so I may be a wee bit biased but I continue to be amazed at what all they have been able to pack into Fusion 360 and yet keep it so amazingly easy and powerful to use.
I’ve removed the Handle here to show how the round Upper Boss is bolted to the 10mm thick CNC cut Hatch Lid which the 15mm Glass will soon be glued to. The Purple part below is the 20mm thick Latch Block or Plate where the “nose” of the Handle slides under to pull the Lid closed. I’ve made all the parts somewhat transparent in this quick render to give you a bit of X-Ray vision to see how all the various features such as the Handles, Lid and Hinges all work together. Click this or any blog image to enlarge it for a closer look. Here’s what one of those Hatch Handles looks like over in the real world. That Latch Block on the Right has two threaded holes on the back side where it is through bolted by two SS Hex-Head bolts going through the Inner Frame. First test fitting of a pair of Hatch Handles.
This is how the Handles are oriented in their Closed position. And this is where the Handles sit in the Open position. The smallest three of the ten Deck Hatches are 450mm / 18” square and their width is too small for the two Handles to fit when you move them to the Open position. My KISS solution was to make one of the Handles a mirror image of the other like this so their ends can overlap and yet still give you the full size handle to close. Worked out very well. As you can see from this design, getting those round Handle Bosses bolted to the Lids in the exact right position is quite critical to them working properly so after a bit of pondering here is the technique I came up with to mount all 20 Bosses.
First lay out the exact center of the Boss and Handles with some calipers and a center punch to position the point of the drill bit. Drill and Tap that hole and thread a length of an M8 – 1.0 threaded rod through it. Then thread the AL Boss onto the rod and tighten the rod to hold it in the correct alignment for drilling the four bolt holes. Getting those four holes all drilled in just the right spot was the critical part of this challenge and the fun trick I came up with was to use the CNC machined AL Bosses as their own drilling jigs. Once I had them tightened up with that center through bolt, I then made up a little “pipe” that had the outside diameter to fit snuggly inside the four holes in the Bosses and then used a drill bit that was the same size as the inside diameter of the SS pipe. A bit time consuming with 80 holes to drill and tap but t worked like a charm and I just repeated this process for all 20 Bosses. One of the 650mm square Hatches is underneath the circular staircase going up to the SkyBridge so it was a bit more challenging to get at but it too was soon all drilled.
With the holes drilled in just the right locations it was straightforward to tap each hole with M6 threads Put a bit of Loctite on each SS bolt and torque them down just right and they were soon all done. Next challenge is to get all 20 of these rectangular Latch Blocks bolted in precisely the right spot on the Inner Frames and I’m hoping to get to that next week so stay tuned.
At the opposite end of the progress spectrum, Uğur and Nihat put in a very full and very hot week working on the Tender to Möbius and I’ll do as I have been in previous posts and show you their progress with a rapid fire series of photos and a bi of text along the way.
With the “Mickey Mouse” opening in the 20mm thick Transom Plate all cut out we wanted to do another test fitting of the Castoldi 224DD jet drive and then mark the centers of all the holes around both the rectangular frame on the bottom and the Transom.
I also needed to check that the two hydraulic cylinders that mount through Mickey’s ears had the right amount of clearance so I climbed inside the Tender, cylinder in hand while the boys lowered the Castoldi into place above me. Perfect fit on the inside. And the outside at this critical 93 degree angled corner between the bottom of the hull and the Transom. Centers of all the holes laid out before removing the Castoldi, center punched each one and it was quick and easy to drill all the holes in this Frame and the Transom. Christine keeps remarking that she can’t get over how bit our “dinghy” is to which I reply, “Look Up!” Looks pretty small now don’t you think? With the Castoldi jet drive all fitted and holes all drilled and all the bottom welding finished, it was time to flip the hull back right side up again. And get to work putting in the rest of the CNC cut 6mm AL plate.
Engine Beds now all welded in and the inner walls of the hull getting tacked in place.
Time to assemble the Swim Platform which doesn’t take them too long. A quick test fit and Uğur welds it all up. This is going to be a great platform that will make snorkeling and Scuba diving SO much easier than from a RIB as well as making rear boarding very easy. However the primary purpose of the Swim Platform is to protect the Jet Drive bucket and nozzle from docks and rocks at the rear and it will do an eXcellent job of this too. Starboard side Console shaping up nicely as well. As is the platform of the seats behind. Test fitting the tacked up Lid over the Engine Bay. It will be hinged at that forward seam and lift up with the assistance of two gas spring lift cylinders like the rear hatch of an SUV. Nihat opens up the forward 100L fuel tank that will provide an access port for cleaning and servicing. Inner frame for the access port tacked in place.
Uğur was now able to get inside to finish welding this fuel tank from the inside to fully seal it off from the two side “tanks” which we will most likely use for additional dry storage rather than fuel.
Holes drilled and tapped, gasket made up and in place. Uğur the Ninja Welder soon had the dashboard all welded up and bolted the SS piano hinge in place. We used the same edge seals as for the Hatches you saw above around the circumference of the hinged dashboard to keep it all weathertight. Once I get to fitting out our Tender I’ll add some latches for this Dashboard, the Engine Lid and other access hatches throughout the Tender but that is much further down the priority list right now. Et Voila! The Center Console is pretty much all welded up. Ever the productive one, Uğur spent a bit of time in the machine shop and whipped up these two hinges that he will weld on next week to the Engine Lid.
So stay tuned for next week’s episode of “How the Tender Turns”
I spent quite a few hours with Mr. Gee this past week and while not too visible yet, got lots done in terms of the mounting some of the critical equipment he will be powering such as the two 250A @ 24V Electrodyne “Big Red” alternators one of which you can see here in the upper Left corner. That one will mount to a beefy bracket I designed this past week that will bolt to the flat horizontal pad you can see above it on Mr. Gee’s front Left corner. I also spent a few hours setting the camshaft timing and the valve clearances. This photo is showing the simple process of setting the clearance between the ends of the valve stems and the rocker arms using a 0.008” for the Exhaust valves and 0.004” for the Intakes. And in case you were wondering what the “Bling” in this week’s title was referring to, I spent a few minutes on the polishing wheel to see how well these little access port covers on the two cylinder heads would polish up. Still very crude as I need to spend much more time prepping those surfaces, but I think this will add a Goldilocks nice touch of class to Mr. Gee to great you as you enter the Engine Room! And that folks, is the week that was September 14-19, 2020 here in Antalya Turkey aboard the good ship Möbius.
Thank you SO much for joining me and even more thanks for posting your questions and comments in the “Join the Discussion” box below.
Another slow week aboard Möbius unfortunately with the combination of lack of staff to another boat ‘Caledonia” that launched on Friday and an unexpected 4 day week due to two workers testing positive to Corona 19. Those two men who had both been working together on Caledonia have been quarantined but and the rest of that team were all tested so we are hoping that we can get back to work tomorrow, Monday here.
However, Uğur and Nihat made great progress on the Tender and I got in some solid days working on Mr. Gee so I’ve got lots to show you and let’s jump right in to this week’s Show & Tell.
Serkan our Hardware specialist, has continued with the installation of all the many latches and gas lifts on the cabinetry doors and drawers in all three cabins. Below is a short little video that will do the best job of showing you how these work.
Now that we get to try these out we really like how our design has all worked out for these Galley Garages. As you can see in the video above, even when you have messy fingers while cooking, a simple flick of your finger allows the door to fully open and move out of the way so you can grab whatever you need inside. These gas filled lift cylinders snap into SS mounting balls which you screw to the inside of the cabinet and the door so while Serkan needed to spend a bit of time figuring out the exact placement of these mounts with the first door, it goes very quickly after that.
I thought the instructions on the plastic bags the cylinders come in would do the best to show you how this works.
The Silver coloured one I’m holding here is a Lift cylinder so it compresses when you close it and is what is used on the Galley Garage doors. The White one on the counter is a “drop” cylinder so it works in the opposite direction to slowly lower our fold down doors where you flip the latch open and then the gas cylinder slowly telescopes out to smoothly lower the door to its fully folded down position rather than free falling open.
Exciting for Christine and I to see that we are now at the stage where our OGM Navigation Lights are getting mounted.
Uğur and I came up with this simple design for the mounting bases that go on each side of the coaming around the SkyBridge for our Red/Green side nav lights. For those not familiar with COLREGS, the standards governing navigation lights for ships of all sizes, this graphic shows the nav light requirements for a power vessel a over 20m/65ft length. For the Port/Starboard Red/Green lights must have a Horizontal View Angle of 112.5 degrees and >70 degrees Vertical so they must be mounted at an angle of 33.75° from the centerline of the vessel. I’ve been using these OGM nav lights for 15 years with great success so sticking with what I know for Möbius. The body is CNC milled out of a solid block of aluminium and then the 2 nautical mile LED sets behind a glass lens and the whole light assembly is “potted” in epoxy so there is nothing to come loose or leak. KISS at its best!
Up on top of the Main Arch we have these 2 OGM lights, a Single White Steaming Light: Visible over a 225 degrees arc forward with the all around 360 degree White Anchor Light mounted above.
Yet to be installed at the end of the Aft Deck is one more OGM that is a Separate White stern light covering 135 degrees Aft. Just up front and off to the Port side of Red/Port light is this GPS head which is dedicated to providing the satellite based GPS data to …………. …………. our em-trak Class A AIS transceiver that is mounted overtop of the Main Helm. We like to have a lot of redundancy for our GPS data so this GPS head is one of five that we have all together onboard Möbius.
Given our speed and size we decided to upgrade the AIS Class B we have had on our previous boats to this Class A unit and the table below explains why.
With Class A we get bumped up to high priority over other boats with Class B, increased power and range broadcasting at 12.5W vs 2W
Dynamic information is transmitted every 2 to 10 seconds while underway and every 3 minutes while at anchor vs every 30-180 seconds on Class B.
Not cheap, but one of our five principles for Möbius is Safety, so when it comes to Safety at Sea we don’t compromise. Courtesy of Digital Yachts site here is a nice graphic (click to enlarge) and overview of AIS (Automatic Identification System).
AIS is the mariner’s most significant development in navigation safety since the introduction of radar. The system was originally developed as a collision avoidance tool to enable commercial vessels to ‘see’ each other more clearly in all conditions and improve the helmsman’s information about his surrounding environment. AIS does this by continuously transmitting a vessels identity, position, speed and course along with other relevant information to all other AIS equipped vessels within range. Combined with a shore station, this system also offers port authorities and maritime safety bodies the ability to manage maritime traffic and reduce the hazards of marine navigation. Due to the great safety benefits offered by AIS, this technology was made compulsory throughout the world in 2002 for all passenger ferries and vessels over 300 gross tonnes.
Nihat is one of our most efficient and hard working members of Team Möbius so while he was waiting for Uğur to lay down more of the finish welds on the Tender, he would move over a few feet to work on cleaning up the welds on the three part Davit Arch.
Here Nihat is working on the long horizontal cross member of the Davit Arch and the thick plate you can see on the far Left in that photo has a matching plate on top of the vertical legs of the Arch. My thinking with this design is that it makes it much easier for us to dismantle the whole Davit and store it on deck when we want to transform Möbius into her “hunkered down” configuration for canals or in hurricane/cyclone conditions when we would also lower the SkyBridge roof.
Prepping for Propulsion:
I was able to spend much of this four day week inside the Engine Room on Möbius getting Mr. Gee ready to have his best buddy our Nogva CPP Servo Gearbox mated to him. This is looking forward at Mr. Gee’s massive 100+Kg flywheel which now has the Nogva aluminium SAE14 frame bolted on.
Each of those rounded “teeth” around the inner circumference will fit precisely with the matching grooves on the hard rubber Flexible Coupling which is bolted to the input shaft of the Nogva Gearbox. Like this. Makes for an eXtremely solid yet eXtremely quiet flexible coupling of the 180 Draft Horsepower coming out of Mr. Gee to the Nogva and on to the CPP propeller. Turning around to get this shot of the SS Prop Shaft protruding out of the AL Prop Log Tube I needed to get the Prop Shaft perfectly centered in the Log Tube so I made up this little jig to do so. Just a short bit of AL tubing machined so it snugly fits into the space between the Prop Shaft and the Log Tube like this. The two halves of the Red Nogva flange you see in these photos will be bolted to the end of the Prop Shaft on the bottom Left here and then this flange must be very precisely aligned with the matching flange on the output of the CPP Gearbox. I’ll show you all that in a week or so.
Mr. Gee Gets Dressed:
Remember that big 24V starter motor you saw being rebuilt and painted the past few weeks? Well here is what it looks like when slid into place on Mr. Gee’s Aft Starboard side. More Gardner ingenuity to make removing the starter so easily, it slides straight aft like an artillery shell into a cannon and you can rotate it to any position and then cinch it up tight with the silver band clamp you see here. I’ve put the terminals on the bottom so the big cables will be well protected by the starter above and have a straight run out below. It also felt great to finally get to fit this Bronze Beauty aka the Engine Oil Cooler, put in place just above the starter and below the Exhaust & Intake manifolds.
Seawater will be pumped into the 90 degree Bronze/Copper pipe at the far end and then out the curved copper pipe in the bottom center here. Up at the Front Stbd/Right side of Mr. Gee is this centrifugal coolant/water pump that is driven by a gear off the timing chain inside the cast AL Crankcase on the Left. The Coolant/water is pumped out through the AL manifold on the Left here and into the two Burgundy Cast Iron Cylinder Blocks. Surrounded my more Beauty, this time in the form of one of our two “tiny” Red 250Amp @24V Electrodyne alternators. Time for me to start fitting these monsters to equally robust mounts I still need to finalise. For this one I’m going to reuse the same method the original Gardner engines did by using strap mounts same as you just saw on the Starter above, to solidly attach the alternator to those three curved you can see are cast into the Crankcase. Then two straps wrap up and around the alternator body and are cinched down with a threaded stud.
As you can see, I also need to finish assembling the big Red Electrodyne Junction Box for all those White wires coming out of the alternator body on the Right. The Junction Box is just sitting loose right now as I measure everything up prior to fitting this in place onto Mr. Gee’s side.
Flip my Tender!
Uğur picked up where we left off last week with some final checks on the critical positioning of the cast aluminium mounting frame which Castoldi supplies with their 244 Direct Drive Jet. That cast AL Mounting Frame is shown in Blue in this render and the Grey plate on the right is a partial view of the 20mm / 3/4” thick AL plate Transom with what I’m calling the “Mickey Mouse cut-out” to create the whole opening in the boat where the Castoldi will bolt to. This is what the whole Castoldi 224DD looks like with the Jet nozzle on the Left and if you look back and forth between this and the render above you will be able to see the mounting holes around the whole jet drive casting and how they will fit into the opening above. Cast aluminum is often a different mixture of the alloys than aluminium plate and can be challenging to weld so we wanted to sure there would be no problems welding this cast AL Frame into the Tender’s Hull plates. Those three cross members spanning the Frame above are temporary so Uğur did a test weld on this one and a small scrap of 6mm AL plate and then we all took turns trying to break the weld with long levers. Didn’t budge or crack so we are good to go. Always a bit of hesitation when it comes to cutting holes in the bottom of our perfectly good boat and especially one THIS BIG! But it was soon done and we’re ready to start installing the Frame.
But first, we decided to flip the hull 180 degrees to make working on the bottom so much easier so strap yourself in and I’ll do another rapid fire set of photos that many of you have said you’ve been enjoying to walk you through the whole flip. Handy having a Forklift is rather handy! One last check fit of the cast Frame into the opening in the Hull.
You can also see the outline of the Mickey Mouse cut out etched ty the waterjet cutter into the Transom. We debated whether to have this Mickey Mouse cut out by the CNC waterjet when all the plates were being cut but we decided it would be better to leave it until now when we could double and triple check its position and get the jet drive in the exact right location.
Aluminium is such a great material to work with and even at 20mm/ 3/4” thick, Uğur was able to make quick work of cutting out the majority with a jig saw while I kept the blade cooled with cutting oil spray. Ta-DA!
I think even Walt would be proud don’t you? Frame tacked in place now ensuring that one of the most critical aspects is that the front edge of the Frame on the far Left here and thus the body of the Castoldi that fits into the Flange, are flush with the bottom plate of the Tender. Seen from above it looks like this. Frame now fully welded into the Hull and Transom. Captain Christine arrives just in time for the start of the Big Flip! Airborne now. 180 degrees, Half way there….. 140 and counting ………. 180! We’re flipped. Nihat wastes no time jumping in with his angle grinder to start cutting the deep V grooves so Uğur can get full penetration with his MIG gun as he follows soon behind with the first full length welds. Like this. MIG welder up and Uğur gets down to business! Time for me to get busy as well as I need to remove a few bits and pieces from the fully assembled Castoldi still sitting inside its factory wooden box.
This is the forward leading edge of the Jet Drive where the water initially enters through the grates underneath the far Left of the cast AL body. I need to remove this electric driven hydraulic pump which powers the Jet’s Steering nozzle and Jet Drive Bucket.
Input Flange where the jack shaft from the 110 HP Yanmar HTE will connect via a flexible coupling and jack shaft. Propulsion direction Forward/Reverse/Sideways is accomplished by moving the big Bucket overtop of the jet’s nozzle which is done by moving the rod in this hydraulic cylinder on the Stbd/Right side. That cylinder above connects to the Bucket like this. I’m very impressed by the design and build of this Castoldi Jet Drive and it only takes me minutes to remove all these parts and have the Jet Drive stripped down and ready to be installed in the hull. A well tuned MIG welder sounds like a very big buzzing honeybee and all the while I’ve been prepping the Castoldi, Uğur has had his MIG gun buzzing merrily away …. as he lays down all those first long lengths of full welds and then goes over them all again with the second final bead. Et Voila!
The bottom of the hull and the Castoldi Frame are all welded in place. We double check that the Frame is still properly aligned and that the heat from all the welding has not warped anything but all is well.
Time to cut out those temporary supports in the Cast AL Frame. And Mickey is now ready to receive his Italian Bride! Who has now also been flipped over 180 and ready to be lifted out of her box and into the Tender. Forklift makes it all very easy and able to lower it slowly in place. And unfortunately I have to leave you and the Castoldi hanging at this point as I was too busy helping Nihat get the Castoldi lowered in place and do all the measuring and checking of the fit to be able to take any more photos. Sorry!!
But I’ll be back to pick up with all this next week so I’ll leave you with this mini cliff hanger for now and hope that you’ll forgive me and join me again next week.
Thanks for joining the adventure and be sure to leave all your questions and comments in the “Join the Discussion” box below.