E-bikes and Flying Fish

Sheesh!  Half way through the month of August already!

Time for a brief update on what’s been happening with us and Möbius over the first two weeks of August.

Weather here continues to surprise us with how ideally cool it is.  This past week has seen the daily temperatures drop a few more degrees from their previous norms of about 32C / 90F down to about 28C / 82F as I sit typing this at about 3pm on Sunday.  Evenings and mornings are even cooler and with the constant Meltemi winds blowing through the boat sleeping is very comfy and mornings are starting to feel downright chilly!  Not sure why this area is experiencing such relatively cool summer when the rest of Europe, the UK and many other parts of the world are seeing record high temperatures but we’ll just enjoy and be grateful that we’ve got such ideal conditions.

Here is what else we’ve been up to the past two weeks.

Update from Kalymnos Greece

IMG_1239_thumbChristine and I have settled into a nice rhythm here onboard Möbius and in this lovely south end of Kalymnos Island that I showed you around in the last post.
Kalymnos set in larger map_thumb[1]If you did not see that post, this map will help orient you as to where the small island of Kalymnos is at (red pin) in the bigger picture of this Eastern end of the Med.
Kalymnos sat view_thumbThis satellite view of the island of Kalymnos (click to enlarge any photo) will help you see how arid and mountainous it is.  Möbius is the south harbour at the Red pin.  To give you a sense of scale, the coast road allows you to circumnavigate the whole island in just 68 km/42 miles.  So not too big which suits us just fine. 

Christine Update

IMG_1204Christine continues to be very dedicated to getting her knee back to full working order and goes for a swim each day where the surprisingly brisk ocean water is the perfect medium for her physio exercises.  Progress is slower than she’d like but improving.  This is but one of may swimming spots she gets to chose from every day.
IMG_1258And almost all of them have a beachside taverna so she gets to enjoy a Freddo Cappuccino and water in the shade when she finishes her exercises.  Thanks to her E-bike that she got before we left Turkey she is able to get to pretty much any of the swim spots on this end of the island in less than 10 minutes and with no strain on her knee, so all good.
IMG_1251The town itself is small but lively with daily arrivals of Turkish Gullets and other sail boats as well as lots of ferries that bring people to and from the surrounding islands or as far away as Athens.  Makes for good people watching including this very salty dog of a Captain.
IMG_1253As with most small towns though there are some less savory characters like this one who manage to sneak in when no one is watching.
IMG_1212In addition to swimming, Christine loves to use her E-bike which she calls her “Freedom machine” to explore further afield and she has been super impressed by how well the “pedal assist” of her trusty E-bike allows her to climb even the steep hills that are the norm everywhere on the island once you leave the waters edge.
IMG_1230Her explorations down random little roads and alleys continue to produce finds like this old church.
IMG_1229Which can often reveal surprise treasures such as this interior of the building above if you go up the stairs and push the door open.
When not out swimming or exploring, Christine is hard at work in her office every day here aboard Möbius as she starts doing the heavy mental lifting of creating a whole new set of characters and timelines for the newest book she is writing.  Stay tuned for more on that as it develops.

Wayne’s World

Meanwhile I am kept very busy with the combination of remaining boat jobs on the list and fixing the inevitable gremlins that pop up.  Our Kabola diesel boiler suddenly stopped earlier this week after working flawlessly every day for the past year and a half so trying to sort that out.  For now I’ve just turned on the 220V element in the Calorifier (hot water tank) for daily dishes and showers.

One of the unfinished boat jobs this week has been finishing building the paravanes so we can test them out when we next head out to sea. 
paravanes1As you may recall from previous posts, Paravanes are passive stabilizers which work by “flying” about 6m / 20’ below the water.  These help keep the boat level by resisting forces trying to roll the boat from side to side.  As the boat rolls, one of the paravanes or “fish” or “birds” as they are sometimes called, resists being pulled upward while the other paravane dives down and sets up for its turn to resist being pulled up as the roll forces go to the other side.

PXL_20220618_144026919The paravanes themselves, are suspended from Dyneema lines (super strong synthetic rope) that hang off of long booms extending out from each side of the boat at about 45 degrees.
LarryM fish in water with retreival lineHere is a paravane in action from another boat.

If you’d like more details on our Paravane setup check out THIS blog post and THIS one from back in June when I was rigging the booms and starting to build the paravanes.

PXL_20220809_114817402   Before we left Finike in Turkey I had finished shaping and painting the 20mm / 3/4” plywood “wings” for the two paravanes and bolting in the T-bracket where the line goes up to the boom. 
PXL_20220809_114751558Now I needed to cut these two aluminium plates to act as vertical fins that will help keep the paravane tracking parallel to the hull.
PXL_20220809_114751558Pretty straightforward to cut with my jig saw and shape with my angle grinder.
PXL_20220809_114815059Now just need to drill holes for the bolts that will attach the vertical fins to the T-bracket and the paravane wings.
PXL_20220809_124532184.MPLike this.  The holes along the top of the T-bracket are where the line going up to the boom attaches and provide adjustments for the angle the paravane will slice through the water at different speeds and conditions.
PXL_20220809_134200156Final step was to bolt on these two zinc weights that weigh about 15kg / 33lbs and create the nose of the paravane.  This forward weight ensures that the fish will dive down quick and smooth when not being pulled upward.  When the boat rolls the other way, the line pulls up which straightens out the fish and immediately start resisting the roll.  Rinse and repeat!
PXL_20220809_142948848_thumbHere is the finished pair of paravanes all ready for testing, though I will probably put on another coat of epoxy paint for good measure.

Next week I’ll finish the rigging and get the lines attached from the ends of the booms to each paravane.

IMG_1070Not too bad a spot to be in and we are eXtremely grateful for just how fortunate we are to be here.

I’ll be back with more as our time races by here in Kalymnos and hope you enjoy these briefer updates.  Let me know by sending your comments and opinions in the “Join the Discussion” box below and I’ll be back with more as soon as I have it.

The Only Constant is Change XPM78-01 Möbius Update July 31, 2022

Whew!  July has been one of the most “social” months we’ve had for a long time and we have just bid a fond Bon Voyage to our latest friends who spent the past week with us aboard Möbius.  Earlier in the month we were overjoyed to have our two granddaughters, Mom Lia and Dad Brian spend two weeks with us.  Brynn and Blair who just turned 8 and 6 respectively this month brought an explosion of laughter and energy onboard and everywhere we went.  All in all an awemazing month though I must admit that we two introverted Nauti Grandparents are now enjoying the chance to catch our breath and recharge our batteries.  I’ll do my best to give you a quick glimpse into our times with family and friends this past month and hope that a wee bit of our joy comes through on your end as well.


This week’s title sums up one of my perspective on life in general and is one of the key reasons that I think I gravitated to this life of living on boats and sailing the world.  For boats themselves as well as the life of sailing them around the world (yes, whether powered by wind or sails we still refer to it as sailing) change is the one thing you can consistently count on and as so often seems to be the case, that is both the good and bad news.  Changes in systems, gear and equipment on the boat, aka breakage/failure, changes in the weather and changes in location, scenery, people, etc.  For the most part, I’ve always enjoyed change and accepted it as a constant in my life, indeed something I actively pursue and set myself up for and I believe that most people actually do like change.  Who would want things to always stay the same?  What I think most of us do NOT like is “being changed”.  Changed by others and not of our choosing.  All this as my long winded way of setting constant change as the context for the past month and likely that of the next few.

Kalymnos; Our Changed Location

Kalymnos Aegean area google mapsFor some geographical context you may recall that in the last Update we had checked out of Türkiye and checked into Greece on the island of Rhodes which is the gold star in the bottom Right of this screenshot of our maps.

(Click to enlarge any image in the blog)
Kalymnos set in larger mapWe had been heading for Athens to meet with our family but guess what?!?  Yup, change.  For a confluence of reasons that are a MUCH longer story for another time, we changed and headed for the relatively small Greek island of Kalymnos which is the Red pin in these two maps.
IMG_1070Photos are much more revealing that maps and here is the view off the Port/Left deck of Möbius.  Now let’s climb up to near the top of that mountain across the way …………
PXL_20220719_113301325…. and here’s the view from that elevated vantage point with some text to show where Möbius is tied up.
Over the years, our family and friends have come to understand that if they want to come visit us, they can chose a Date OR a Location but NOT both!  Think about that for a moment and you’ll soon appreciate how challenging that is.  It takes a LOT of perseverance and adaptability to come visit us and fortunately our family and friends are eXtremely flexible and willing to go to these great lengths to come for a visit.  Lucky us and our deep appreciation to all of you who take on these challenges and come to visit us.

Experiencing Life Through 6 and 8 Year Granddaughters

kalymnos airport sat viewAnd so it was that on July 9th, Lia, Brian, Brynn and Blair flew into the tiny little Kalymnos airport literally perched atop a mountain top to the NW of Möbius which is the light patch in the middle of this sat photo.
IMG_1152A 15 minute downhill run later, we had their feet in the cool Aegean waters on one of the countless beaches here on the island.  We had outings every day, sometimes in a rental car to explore the 68 kilometers of coastal road around Kalymnos and sometimes just a short 15 minute walk into the town near where we are docked so we all got to know this small island quite well.
PXL_20220712_140213007Wherever we went, Blair and Brynn mostly wanted to swim and this was our local swimming beach a short walk from Möbius which you can see in the upper Left of this photo, snuggled in between two much larger ships.
PXL_20220713_113521804.MPWe sought out and found lots of small harbours like this one that typically had several restaurants to chose from, some local boats and of course more swimming.
IMG_1125They all had the Goldilocks combination of places for the girls to jump in for a swim …..
PXL_20220711_121708499……. with tables on the waters edge for the adults to chat while easily keeping an eye on our simmers while we enjoyed some shade, drinks and food. 
IMG_1165We seemed to be able to find this ideal combo……
IMG_1155……. everywhere we went along the coast……
IMG_1097….. and a grand time was had by all.
PXL_20220712_104708221.MPSome evenings we would stroll into town and wander the small alleyways soaking up the local ambience.

PXL_20220712_120710480.MPIn town, there was no shortage of little sidewalk restaurants along the waterfront to enjoy more delicious Greek food, wine and conversations.
PXL_20220716_063343964.MPOne day we got going a bit early and caught the short 40 minute ferry over to the larger island and city of Kos.
PXL_20220716_084855202Kos is a central hub amongst these islands so much busier and more tourists but also much more green and of course more ruins to see before we caught the ferry ….
PXL_20220719_161307419.MP…. back home to Möbius (seen in the background) complete with a bronze statue of the girls favorite; a Mermaid!
All too soon though, it was time to take the family back to the mountaintop airport for them to start their marathon of planes, trains and automobiles to get back to California.  Thanks Lia, Brian, Brynn and Blair, missing you already and can’t wait for our next time together wherever that may be.

Two days later our good friends Jeff and Kate came over on the ferry from Kos, where they had flown in, and spent a week onboard with us.  They too had been real troopers in adjusting their travel plans and itinerary for their two month long European adventure to be able to get to us here on Kalymnos. 

IMG_1170While our current location is ideal for us, its certainly not a dream destination for most and this is the view off our bow at night. 
PXL_20220709_054151640Not to be outdone, this is the view from our stern. But Jeff & Kate were very understanding guests and we had lots of time to enjoy just hanging out and catching up with them.  They certainly left with some good stories to share about their unique adventure on Kalymnos and aboard Möbius.  All too soon though, Jeff & Kate needed to catch the ferry back over to Kos a few days ago and are now continuing their European tour to Venice, Milan and then on to Spain and France before they wind up their grand European adventure and head home to Vancouver.  Thanks Kate & Jeff for being such good sports to make all the changes needed to get here and for fitting into our unique accommodations and ambience!

Just right, Just for us

When we were designing Möbius one of the ways we described our design goals was to have a boat that would blend in very well to a fishing or commercial shipping port and stick out more in a fancy marina.  As you’ve been seeing in some of the photos, I think we, thanks to our awemazing designer NA Dennis, have met that design goal very well! 

The Goldilocks “fit” here for us here in Kalymnos is not just our “hood”, but that we have a side tie to a concrete dock that is at deck level and makes getting on/off the boat an easy one step operation which is VERY rare in this part of the world.  Pretty much every other place requires that you Med Moor by backing into the dock and then having a ramp or passerelle to get on/off the boat.  Works OK, but with Christine’s mobility still not fully returned after her knee surgery this presents a more serious issue and is one of several reasons why we have decided to take a break to allow Christine’s knee to fully recover and stay here in Kalymnos for the next month or two. 

While it would not suit most others I suspect, for us this is the latest version of what I frequently refer to as living on The No Plan Plan.  It’s a great example of the true freedom afforded by this way of living we are so fortunate to have that allows us to make such decisions and do what is just right, just for us. 

IMG_1128We pretty much have the whole concrete jetty to ourselves and with local surroundings like this ……
IMG_1168….. and sunsets like this from our SkyBridge at night, perhaps more of you can appreciate how this can feel like the ideal home for us right now until we decide to move on to the next location that is calling our name.

For the next while these Update posts will likely be a bit irregular as I’m not sure I will have enough content to warrant weekly Updates.  However, rest assured that I will continue to post Updates as things evolve here and I’ve got several posts to catch up on some technical topics I’ve promised for some time.  Please continue to send your questions and comments in the “Join the Discussion” box below and keep an eye out for those notification Email alerts if you’ve subscribed to the Möbius.World blog or check in from time to time as our grand adventure continues.


Möbiustrip continues Update July 4-10, 2022 XPM78-01 Möbius

A very short post for you this week as we are going to meet our two granddaughters, daughter and son at the airport in a few minutes.  They will be staying with us for the next two weeks so I’m going to take a bit of a break from blogging to enjoy every moment of Grampa time I can with them.

PXL_20220704_100713595After leaving Turkey we checked into Greece in Rhodes, stayed the night and were off first thing in the morning heading for Athens with a stop or two to anchor for the night along the way.

45CF40B9-2C3D-48A3-9482-0B999666C2BDHowever, that apparently wasn’t meant to be and so we diverted our course and
IMG_1072are now on the small Greek island of Kalymnos which will make for a great spot to explore with our family. 
I will catch up with things in about two weeks so enjoy the rest from my ramblings while we enjoy some much needed Grampa and Gramma time.


3 Steps Forward, 2 Steps Back Weekly Update 23-28 May, 2022 XPM78-01 Möbius

As is often the case, life often seems to be doing the dance with 3 steps forward and 2 steps back and such was our overall experience this past week as we continue to make our way NW along the Turquoise Coast of Turkey.  But always worth remembering that this is still one step forward in the positive direction so can’t complain.

Not too much in the way of Show & Tell this week so will be mercifully shorter than many of my “brevity challenged” norm, lucky you!  But fortunately Christine has put together a very fun and informative video of our recently launched Tender Möbli so be sure to check that out below.

Let the dance begin!

DJI_0037One of many “steps forward” was our discovery of yet another little bay where we were able to be the only boat there.  Christine is continuing to log more flight hours on our Mavic Air 2 drone and she was able to take some photos like this one that I’ll use to start of with a visual teat for you.  This actually turned out to be more like 2 steps forward all at once as the 3 other boats that had been there when we first arrived pulled up their anchors and left the bay all to us.
Turquoise CoastWe added even a third step forward when Captain Christine found this little piece of paradise in the midst of the very large and very busy area around Göcek which you can find on this same map you saw in last week’s update.  As you can see on the map, the large area around Göcek has a huge total coastline around the large bay that is a series of rocky indentations and bays everywhere.
Gocek aerial viewHowever, take one step back because as per this aerial view of one tiny part of Göcek, this is also is home to a large number of superyachts, charters and boats in general and boating season is in full swing here now so when we headed off in search of some little place to anchor without too many others around us, we didn’t have much luck for the fist few hours.  But Christine kept moving us along and wanted to check out just one more little bay that looked like it could work well and as we rounded the point and could see inside we were delighted to see that there were only two other boats at anchor compared to the tens or hundreds in most other places.  Serendipity and perseverance triumph once again!

Med Mooring at Anchor and Dock

Med Mooring with anchorSome of you might be thinking it is rather selfish of us to want a place all to ourselves, and we take your point but the other challenge with anchoring in Turkey and much of the Med is that the bottom stays very deep until just a few meters from shore when it rises rapidly to depths you can anchor in.  BUT, this also means that you are dropping your anchor too close to shore two swing as the wind shifts and so the defacto practice here is to “Med Moore” where you drop your anchor and then back in towards shore and then take two long lines known as “shore fasts” off cleats on the stern of the boat and tie them to rocks ashore.  Works very well as the boat can not swing but also means that as soon as one boat does this, no other boats can anchor nearby as they would swing when the Med Moored boat does not and the end result would not be good. 
Med mooring to dockMed Mooring is pretty much the universal way of docking throughout the whole Mediterranean, hence the name and is pretty much the only method of docking in marinas as well which is done as per this illustration.  We are getting more and more practice at this and ends up working quite well, just requires more shore side assistance from the marina staff as they usually don’t want everyone dropping their anchors wherever they decide so instead all the marinas put in large lines that are permanently (we hope) attached to the bottom out in front of all the docks and when you come in the marineras come out in one of their RIBs and hands you one of these lines and you attach that to your bow and then back down till your stern is just a few feet away from the dock and they help you secure the two lines from the stern to shore.
Med mooring is pretty new to us but we are getting more and more practice with every marina we dock at along the way and will need to learn to do so in many anchorages on the horizon.  To do that we need to add some more “kit” to Möbius in the form of some reels with several hundred meters of line on them, some chain or webbing to attach to the rocks ashore and miscellaneous bits and bobs of hardware to create our shore fast equipment list which is sort of one step back but just what we need to do.

Love Me Tender

Christine has put together a real treat for all of you who have been asking for more videos and more information about our Tender Möbli.  She has put together a very nicely done synopsis of the building and outfitting of our Tender which is just under 5 meters LOA with an inboard Yanmar 4JH4 HTE 110 HP diesel engine driving a Castoldi 224DD Direct Drive jet.  In addition to the equivalent of being our “car” or more like an SUV if we were living ashore, we have also designed and built this to be our emergency backup in the unlikely event of loosing our main propulsion system and would enable us to use it like a mini tugboat to push or pull Möbius to safety ashore.  Hope you enjoy this short and fun video, all thanks to my incredibly hard working and talented Bride.

A few steps back…..

When I left off in the previous post we had just arrived in Fethiye and anchored out in the relatively large harbour.   Fethiye is a medium sized city along this coastline and we took advantage of this to get Christine’s knee looked at again.  As I mentioned last week she had originally torn her meniscus way back in 2015 when our previous boat was up on the hard and was blown over when the 2nd most severe cyclone swept through where we were in Fiji.  Since then it had seemed to have repaired itself as they often do but there have been two previous times when it has flared up in the years since and did so again quite out of the blue just before we left Finike a few weeks ago.  Long story short it has gone somewhat bad to worse and so clearly we needed to make this our #1 priority and are doing that now as we make our way along the coast.  She has now seen three different experts and the consensus seems to be that given the long history of this damage, the best course of action is to repair the tear via relatively straightforward anthropogenic surgery. 

normal and torn meniscusSo this morning Christine travelled back to the hospital we have both used in the past with rapid and excellent results and has an appointment with the surgeon and other experts first thing tomorrow morning.  I am therefore left with no adult supervision, Ruby and Barney don’t count and so at the risk of over sharing this illustration shows what a meniscus tear looks like which neither of us knew too much about previously.

That will provide us with the answers we need to put together our plan for the next few weeks and hopefully she will be able to get this all looked after within that time and be able to be back aboard the Good Ship Möbius where she can recover and be diligent with the what her doctors recommend for the best physio therapy for a rapid and complete healing and she hopefully regains full use of her knee.  Will do my best not to bore you will all this or too many details but thought it best to be up front with all of you and just let you know this aspect of the dance steps we are waltzing to in our world of late.

The REAL Turkish Delight is called kahvaltı!

PXL_20220524_070032495.MPTo end with a few dance steps forward this past week when we were anchored off of Fethiye for two nights and Christine went ashore to meet with the medical experts there, we took advantage of a lovely little restaurant on the shore right across from the hospital and enjoyed what is likely one of our last few Turkish breakfasts.  Mobius is anchored a few hundred meters just outside this far left side of this photo and our inflatable kayak is in the water right in front of us.
PXL_20220524_070038495Both of us prefer savory over sweet by a wide margin and so the infamous Turkish Breakfasts which are called kahvaltı, are our version of what is the real Turkish Delight.  Knowing we don’t have too many of these opportunities left before we leave Turkey in a few weeks so we took our time on this gorgeous morning to really savour this one.  Several steps forward indeed!
I’ll leave off on that high note and look forward to bringing you the next weekly update next Sunday to catch you up on what’s the latest in Möbius.World.  Till then, thanks for taking the time to join us and please keep those questions and comments coming in the “Join the Discussion” box below.


Free at Last! XPM78-01 Möbius Weekly Update 16-21 May, 2022

We were underway all day yesterday in some rather boisterous weather so not able to put together this weekly update and get it out to you until today.  We continue to climb the learning curve with this very unique boat but all is going well and we could not be happier to have finally thrown off those pesky dock lines and start our new adventures aboard the Good Ship Möbius. 

What’s the Plan Stan?

Turquoise CoastAs many of you know I life life on The No Plan Plan and have hopes and intents instead but in the coming weeks we will continue to make our way along the beautiful Turquoise Coast of Turkey which you can see in this map.  Möbius was built at Naval Yachts in Antalya so that’s where the adventure began.  Last July with our Granddaughters and family aboard we moved West to the marina in Finike where Möbius has been tied up most of the time since
IMG_20170306_072518 We took time to go fly over to North America for a much needed “Nauti Nomadic Grandparents Roadtrip” to visit family and friends in October and November.  Since then and as per all the weekly blog updates since, we have been eXtremely busy checking off all the To Do list items to get Möbius fully sea worthy and ready for us to finally head back out to sea-ing this awemazing world of ours.
PXL_20220517_110812198.MPBoth Christine and I will admit to wondering at times if this day would ever come but finally, on Tuesday the 17th of May 2022 we threw off the dock lines and were “free at last” as we left Finike in our wake and our new adventures out sea-ing the world on our new floating home began.
279747158_581634359969972_1001843780865372145_nOur friends Matt and Cindy have also got their relatively new Amel sailboat in the Finke marina and they are recently returned from the US to get “Speed of Life” all ready for the sailing season and they kindly helped release the lines from the dock and give us a good send off. 
They also took some video of us leaving the dock and so here’s a look at that for you and our thanks to Matt and Cindy for taking and sending these videos.

One thing that is working eXtremely well is using the huge rudder and CPP prop to act as a big stern thruster.  Very well shown in this video as you watch Möbius pull away from the dock, clear the bow lines on the boat to our Starboard/Right side and turn on a dime.  I put the rudder over at 35-40 degrees (limit is 45) and then push the Pitch lever full ahead for a few seconds and then back to neutral.  You can see the water being kicked up from this at the stern and then watch as the boat turns almost on its center point to make the 90 degree turn in this narrow waterway.  As I get more and more used to this the bow thruster won’t be needed at all though always there to help out and for other uses as well.  We designed the rudder to be very large and to be able to turn 45 degrees in both directions for this purpose so it is great to see it all work out so well in practice.

And with that, we were off!

Another thing we are eXtremely happy with is how well this hull slides through the water.  In this shot of us leaving the marina we are doing 6.5 knots and not a wake to be seen.  Thanks Dennis!

DJI_0024And so we were free at last but we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to spend our first anchorage alone in the beautiful little bay near Kekova where you may recall this shot and Christine’s drone video from this April 12th blog when our friends John and Genna were with us for a week.  Kekova did not disappoint and we enjoyed two blissful nights on anchor with nothing but the sounds of water lapping on the hull, some birds overhead and some goats with bells on ashore.
Kekova CastleThis is the small hilltop castle above the village of Kekova which we pass going in/out of the bay.  How could we possibly pass up a chance for a few more days and nights on anchor here to more indelibly inscribe this amazing spot into our long term memory banks?
IMG_0881I think it is going to take me at least quite a bit longer to make the transition from the multi year building stage to this new underway stage, but as you can see I’m working on it! 
PXL_20220517_114343812.MPAll thanks to Captain Christine manning the Helm most of the time while I look after the boat and keeping everything working and well logged as we go.
So far we have only used the Helm up in the SkyBridge as the views from there are truly spectacular and this has been working out very well.  The removable acrylic sliding windows allow us to move and remove the side panes to suit the weather and right now it is still a bit chilly during squalls and early mornings so we have left in two of the four sliding panes on each side which allows us to get just the right amount of breeze coming in or kept out as conditions change.  As the hotter summer weather arrives we will remove all but the front three panes for maximum airflow and cooling.

Timely Transition

In all seriousness though, it really is going to take me a good while longer to make this transition back into the live I and we both love SO much.  The build officially started on the 6th of April 2018 and we had been in Antalya since the end of 2017 so we have been landlubbers for over four years and that along with all the stress and strain of the build process has taken its toll on both of us.  Our choice of Turkey and Antalya to build Möbius turned out to be even better than we had hoped and especially when you consider the safe haven this provided for us as we lived through the past few years of Covid on top of it all.  We therefore begin our meandering exit out of Turkey with the fondest of memories, a fabulous new home and that bittersweet combination of melancholy to be leaving and excitement of getting back to life afloat. 

Truth be told though we are also both exhausted mentally and physically.  You know that feeling when you finally finish a big job and sit down for a quick breather and it hits you; “Oh!  I didn’t realise I was THAT tired!”?  Some supersized version of that is what I’ve been feeling these past few days after leaving Finike.  Christine has her own similar but unique version as we both become more and more aware of the need to breath deeply and take our time settling into what in some ways is our very familiar past life and yet at the same time, our all together new life.

The Latest Voyage Begins

Turquoise CoastYou can follow along on the map up above and here again, to see how we are taking our time to coastal hop our way along this beautiful Turquoise Coast.  After putting Kekova in our wake we made the next short 20 NM or so hop West to Kaş. 
Kas Setur MarinaOur annual contract with Setur Marinas has a feature that we are now going to take full advantage of which is that we get to stay for up to 30 nights on any of the other 10 Setur marinas between Antalya and Istanbul!  So we sailed into the lovely Setur Marina in Kaş and spent two nights there. 
PXL_20220520_074801161We enjoyed three nights tucked in between these other boats which will give you a good sense of the diversity of boats that are in this area.

Unfortunately Christine twisted her knee last week and it has been getting worse so we rented a car and drove back down to the hospital in Kamlucha the town beside Finike and where we have been before.  Their MRI machine was being serviced but they did a preliminary exam and prescribed some anti inflammatory to help reduce the swelling and those have been helping.  We will go to the next big hospital for a full MRI scan at our next stop in Fethiye.

The Newest Member of Möbius.World Fleet

PXL_20220523_075538297As you may recall reading last week, our Davit Arch is not working so we are unable to launch and retrieve our Tender Möbli and so we bought this newest member of the Möbius.World fleet.  We actually have another inflatable 2 person kayak onboard which we had aboard our previous boat sv Learnativity, but alas when Christine when to pump it up the seams on the floor had all let go and and are beyond a simple regluing.  We will order a new one from Advanced Elements but we will have to figure out how to get to us as we are “of no fixed address” once again.

For now though, this new kayak will work fine for short trips ashore when we are on anchor.
Mobius strip   klein vessel illustrationNot sure on a name for the newest kayak yet though I’m thinking “Klein” because if you turn a 2D Möbius strip into 3D it becomes what is known as a Klein vessel or bottle.  Let me know your thoughts on this and other names for our newest floating member of the family.

Testing, Testing ………

We now had about 100 nautical miles under Möbius’ keel with our various short test runs and trips since launching last year and all of these have been in very benign conditions so we wanted to push Möbius, and ourselves, a little bit harder.  Weather forecast for Sunday the 22nd called for some thunderstorms and a bit of wind so we decided to make the longer run, about 60nm from Kas to Fethiye.  We left Kaş marina in beautiful sunny morning weather but a few hours later as we were making our way along the coast the skies turned dark and stormy with winds gusting over 35 knots with about 1 meter seas.  Both of those on the nose of course!  So we got a bit more than we had bargained for but did provide us with the kind of testing and different conditions we wanted.  Mr. Gee purred along for the next 8+ hours without a hiccup or complaint and we probably averaged about 7.5 knots overall.  I was surprised at how much wind affected our speed which would reduce our speed up to one knot when against us and add about the same when from behind.  We are in eXtremely lightships trim with only about 500 of the 17,000 liters in our tanks and I have not make our paravanes yet and so in the confused seas we experienced, when the swells came at us on the Port beam/Left side they rolled our smooth rounded hull much the same as our previous sailboat.  However Möbius handled it all in stride and really did help us get much more of a feel for the way this new hull performs.   It will be a completely different ride once we have full fuel tanks and paravanes in the water!  With that experience under our keels we can now go back to the much more common calm sea and weather conditions for the remainder of our cruising up the Turquoise coast towards Istanbul.  As Christine noted though, “getting those paravanes installed just moved up my priority list quite a few notches”!

Fethiye marina harbourWe checked out one potential place to anchor on the way up as there were some squalls breeding up ahead, but we didn’t like the looks of it so we just continued back along the coast and made it safely into the very protected harbour here in Fethiye.  Total trip time from Kaş to Fethiye was exactly 8 hours and was a good test for both Möbius and ourselves.  We have anchored here in Fethiye harbour on a boat we were delivering back in 2017 and it is a very protected and large bay with good sandy bottom throughout at about 2-4 meters / 6-15 ft.

Fethiye castleThe rain and winds had started to die down as we approached Fethiye and put the anchor down and Mother Nature treated us to a HUGE rainbow, which was so stunning I forgot to take any pictures!  This one taken a few hours ago will have to do.  We enjoyed a peaceful night on the hook with yet another castle on the hills above us to admire for our breakfast up in the SkyBridge.  I have just taken Christine ashore in the maiden voyage of our new kayak and she is now getting the MRI and other examination of her left leg looked after. I’m back onboard catching up to this overdue blog update and then tackle of few more of the ever present ToDo list items while I await her call to paddle back and pick her up.
This is how we will continue for our last few weeks in Turkish waters before we check out and head over to Greece where we are VERY excited to be meeting Lia, Brian and our two Granddaughters Brynn and Blair when they land in Athens.  Can’t wait for more time and experiences with that whole crew and we will need to take it slow and rest up between now and then to have enough energy to keep up with our two young crewmembers. 

Thanks for joining us as we set of on this latest of life’s adventures and please continue to add all your comments and questions in the “Join the Discussion” box below.


Happy Birthday Wayne!

Happy Birthday Wayne!

Christine here, guys. Yes, I know. Wayne did not have time to write a blog on Sunday, and it was my fault. You see, Sunday, January 23rd was Wayne’s birthday. It’s really hard to figure out what to get him for his birthday. At this point in our lives, we don’t really need more stuff, so we decided recently to try to simply give each other experiences. My first plan (which sadly got thwarted) was a pretty good one, I thought. On one of my daily walks, I came upon this banner strung up between a couple of trees. What were the odds? They were going to have Turkish Camel Wrestling in the next town over on January 23, Wayne’s birthday. IMG 0370 Camels were used as an important form of transportation in this Antalya region where we live for over 1000 years and up until about 50 years ago. They were important in the Ottoman Empire and a big part of the Turkish culture. Today, they have these festivals where they dress up the animals in these fantastic costumes and they have them “wrestle.” Essentially, they try to get the males to do what they might do in the wild, which is to fight over a female, so they parade a female camel (who is in heat) before a pair of males which makes them start foaming at the mouth, and then they go into the ring and “fight” for the female. Usually, after a bit of jostling, the loser runs away. I think it sounds fascinating and I am dying to go before we leave Turkey!  If you are interested in seeing a video of a camel wrestling event click here. However, the whole event got cancelled due to the weather getting down to freezing. With nowhere to house the camels locally overnight, the event has been postponed. So, there I was with a rented car for Wayne’s birthday, and I needed to do a fast change of plans. IMG 0423 I understand that people who have to commute to work, don’t think that driving is much fun, but when you don’t own a car, having one for a day does become a sort of a treat. And I know Wayne loves to drive, especially on curving mountain roads, and we had ourselves a little standard 5-speed diesel Citroen. Map2 We also were out of coffee and a few other more exotic provisions, so a trip to the “Big City” of Antalya was in order. I opened Google maps. Our route is highlighted in orange above. We normally drive to town on the route called the D400 which more or less follows the coastline and that is the way we came home (more or less). However, I noticed this tiny curvy road inland, and while I was a bit worried about how high it might take us given the snow level on the mountains, I decided we’d give it a go. Finike Marina is at the bottom where we started out, then we went up through the town of Kumluca and into the mountains. We came out at Antalya and drove back mostly on the D400 with a side trip to Adrasan and Karakoaz before returning home to the marina. It totaled about 275 kilometers. IMG 0381 I took this photo of the marina here the last time we had a gorgeous cold, clear day. Since then we had another rainy few days and the snowline had crept lower. Just so you understand my concerns about how high we might get without chains or snow tires. 669CF983 7B47 4646 AEED D3F80E5F2EAD The storms we get here can be pretty fierce and the temperatures lately have been slipping closer to freezing even here on the coast. The snow is creeping lower and lower down the mountains. IMG 0294 The last time we took our intrepid sea dogs with us on a curvy coastal road, our darling Yorkshire Terror, Barney, suffered a bout of motion sickness (he who has crossed the equator and sailed to New Zealand) and puked all over the back seat of the last rental car, so we decided this would be an Adults Only trip. IMG 0362 So on Sunday, we closed the door on the pups assuring their safety inside the boat and climbed into the car for our drive up into the mountains. The weather was spectacular to start with a clear and cloud-less blue sky. IMG 0418 The tallest peaks of the Taurus Mountain range were off to our left as he wove our way over this pass through the lower mountains. Sometimes the road got so narrow, there was only space for one car. When we started out that morning down at sea level, the temperature had been about 6C. Lots of people have a stereotype in their minds when they think of Turkey. They think about camels and desert. Turkey also has amazing mountains and pine forests. IMG 0408 As we climbed upwards closer and closer to the lower snowy peaks, the trees grew taller and the temperature started slowly dropping. IMG 0415 I was actually surprised at the number of villages we passed, and the many small farms that dotted the mountains. The cows scrambled up and down the mountains almost like goats, but they generally seemed to prefer walking on the road. IMG 0416 As we climbed higher, we got closer and closer to the snow. After passing through the village of Altinyaka, there were signs posted saying you had to have snow tires to go any further. Ha! We don’t need no snow tires. We have a Canadian driver! IMG 0406 Or so I thought until I started to see how much snow was down close to our road.  IMG 0412 And I checked the car’s thermometer. IMG 0411 I always get nervous when I start seeing the banded sticks on the sides of the road that will measure the depth of the snow, and show drivers where the road is in the drifts. Fortunately, we never got that high, but I was able to access my iPhone’s altimeter through the iNavX app. IMG 0413 We topped out around 4,267 feet. IMG 0419 Then we started the descent down the other side into the city of Antalya, our old stomping ground.  IMG 0424 It was goats and sheep crossing the road on the way down.  IMG 0427 We got a nice bird’s eye view looking down on the port of Antalya. The Free Zone where MÖBIUS was built is on the left side of the harbor, opposite the cruise ship that appears to be parked due to the pandemic. IMG 0430 I took the birthday boy to Starbucks for his birthday piece of chocolate brownie cheesecake for which he had to fight an armada of sparrows (and his wife) to get a few bites in. IMG 0428 After a nice grocery and wine run, we hopped back into the car and started the drive back home to Finike.  IMG 1787 The sun was warm, the Mediterranean was the usual gorgeous blue, and the drive along the coast was almost as much fun as the mountain drive. Sorry to all who were anticipating a Wayne blog, but he deserved to take a day off from all the boat projects.  I promise he will be back soon with more tales of our travails of getting MÖBIUS ready to go to sea. Fair winds! Christine