I finally got back to Antalya from the Cannes Boat show on Monday night so only had four days in the Naval Yachts yard and onboard the good ship Möbius but everyone else on Team Möbius put in a very full week though much of their time and attention was diverted to the 27m steel yacht “Legacy” that has been sitting in front of us all this time. I will show you what this was all about in this week’s Progress Update as well as the new work and new equipment that showed up this past week as well. Lots to cover so let’s jump right in.
Let’s start with the “Out with the New” part of this week’s title and a question for you; What’s missing from this picture??
Does this view help?
Correct! There used to be a big boat in that big space in front of Möbius and you can see that it has now been moved out onto the road outside the Naval Yachts shipyard ready to make its trip over to the launching ramp and finally into the water where all ships belong.
When she arrived, the interior was completely void so an all new interior needed to be designed and installed along with new engines, generators and all systems from electrical to hydraulic, plumbing, navigation, aka EVERYTHING!
Given the enormity of this project and the owner’s wish to have her completed and ready for charter ASAP, he enlisted the help of the design company that did the original design as well as his own team of engineers to create a very large collaborative project involving almost 100 people in total.
Unfortunately for Möbius this often included them borrowing some members of Team Möbius to help out including these three you might recognize from previous postings; Mummy (left), Uğur and Nihat who have been busy all this past week getting Legacy ready for Launch Day.
The transfer is quite simple, they set the boat down straddling the rails and supported by the splayed out build stands left welded to the hull same as you can see in some of the photos above when they first moved her out of the shipyard bay.
As you can imagine, this all served to heighten our excitement and anticipation of when it is our turn to launch Möbius and this only served to reinvigorate us to get back to work getting our new home ready for this major milestone.
You can some of the more recent changes such as the bow thruster tube and fairing with one of the sea chest openings just behind, the pipe “pulpit” railings up at the bow, stanchions running down the side deck and if you look closely and way up high you can see the upper end of the Paravane A-Frame on the far Starboard side. The large aluminium assembly in the lower right side is the roof over the SkyBridge which should be going in place in the next week of two.
With our Aluminium team MIA working on Legacy the other teams were able to make good progress with cabinetry, finishing, plumbing and wiring so let’s go check that out.
The Master Cabin has been “gutted” as all the cabinetry you’ve been seeing has been moved out and up to the Finishing Department where they are being sprayed with many coats of polyurethane varnish and paint which we will see a bit later.
For those wondering, all these surfaces will be completely sealed with many coats of white PU paint so Ömer has laminated all the marine plywood surfaces with a special inert composite material that creates the perfect flat, smooth surface for the paint. Hence this unique colour you see. This is a time consuming detail but the resultant glass smooth and very tough painted surfaces are worth it.
The lighter wood is a type of Beech which is what we are using for surfaces on the insides of cabinets, drawers, doors, etc. Very hard, sands and takes finish well and the lighter colour both contrasts well with the dark tones of the Rosewood and provides more light inside closets and drawers.
The long narrow Rosewood strip on the right is the toe kick and the dado/groove above it is where the indirect LED lighting strips will go to provide the added safety of well lit floor areas at night as well as what I think is a very lovely look as the soft and dimmable light is reflecting off these Rosewood surfaces throughout the boat.
Well, this box arrived from Jefa Rudders in Denmark with all the components for the massive self aligning rudder bearings.
Under the rudder shelf you can see the vertical 200mm AL tube with the rudder shaft inside with the top and bottom Jefa Rudder bearings fitted at each end. The top of this rudder tube is about 525mm / 21” above the loaded WL so no need for any seals.
Why go to all this trouble some might ask? Well, if you’ll allow me a small technical diversion, there are several reasons and I’ll highlight just a few. (Feel free to skip down to the next photo if this doesn’t interest you)
These Jefa self aligning roller bearings are made of PETP (also known as Arnite, Ertalyte, Sustodur & Ultradur), so it doesn’t consist of any metals and has zero absorption. In addition to providing excellent bearing surfaces this also keeps our all aluminium rudder completely electrically isolated from the rest of the hull and also no possibility of any corrosion due to dissimilar metal contacts.
Given such a massively oversized rudder shaft it would probably have worked fine to do what most boats do which is to make the rudder bearing a simple solid bushing made of Delrin or nylon or another type of plastic impregnated with self lubricating material, which is then press fit into the rudder tube and bored out to slightly oversize for the rudder shaft to slide smoothly inside and usually with some grooves cut inside to allow a grease to be inserted using a zerk fitting and grease gun. I had this type of setup on my previous all steel sailboat and due to having never been greased in the 12 years before I bought it, this seized up as I was making my way down the west coast of Mexico. Made for some interesting manoeuvrings as you can imagine but once I was able to make it to a marina and get hauled out it was a VERY long and arduous job to press out the seized rudder shaft, then press out the bushing, get a new one machined and installing the new setup. I added two additional grease fittings to this new setup and must say it worked very well for the next 10 years as I sailed her long and hard throughout the Pacific and is still working well for the new owners, who I encouraged to be very religious about greasing at least once a year.
However with this being a skeg hung rudder, meaning only supported above the rudder not below, and being the second lowest underwater part of the boat, there is always the danger of hitting something with the bottom of the rudder that we thought long and hard about as we designed the whole rudder and steering system. And of course with Murphy’s Law ensuring that such an event would most likely happen at high speed contacting something very solid at O’dark Thirty some stormy night, there is the possibility, however unlikely, that the rudder shaft could bend or arc, even if for just a short time of the impact. With a solid bushing or even fixed bearings this would cause the rudder shaft to bind against the bushing and if severe enough to seize and thus cause loss of steering. Even more so on a power boat than a sailboat where you can use your sails to help steer, this is a scenario we want to reduce to as close to zero as possible and so we have done everything we can to design and now build a rudder and overall steering system which is as bullet proof as possible.
As you might guess, this is not cheap, easy or fast but this is yet another example of how we design in a large SWAN or Sleep Well At Night factor into these XPM boats. After much discussion with the super helpful people and expert engineers at Jefa Rudder Systems, thanks Thor!, we were able to design what I think is one of the most robust and trouble free rudder systems in any boat I know of. Now that I have all these parts in my hands I could not be happier and I will show you the whole installation process as that happens in the coming weeks.
OK, sorry for that technical diversion but there are not too many other systems more critical than our steering system so I thought some of you would appreciate some of these details. Now back to our regular programming ……………..
Some of you may be able to guess what is in this crate but I have blanked out the give away label in the center here to keep the rest of you guessing just a wee bit longer until I have time to complete the full Tech Talk article on what this is. So stay tuned for that and I hope to have that article up within the next week.
They often don’t get the attention and thanks they deserve so I snuck in this photo of some of the people on Team Möbius who spend most of their time hard at work and hidden away in the main Engineering Office.
Apologies for the poor photo quality as I shot this through the glass window in the hallway so as not to disturb them but if you look closely (click to enlarge) you can make out Yusuf the head electrician in the red shirt at the desk on the far left, Enver the Chief Engineer and Shipyard Manager standing in the far middle and the top of Yiğit’s very smart head sitting behind the monitor.
Seated in the left foreground is my Beautiful Bride and Captain Christine working closely on Galley layout details with Yeşim our incredible interior designer and unfortunately just out of site on the far right sits Buse who looks after purchasing and scheduling for Project Goldilocks.
Sadly for me, Christine flies off to Florida on Monday morning and will be gone for over six weeks looking after everything from a big author’s conference, updating her 100 Ton Captain’s license, fixing up the condo in Ft. Lauderdale and most of all getting in some serious Gramma time with our grandson Liam. I will join her and them at the end of October and in the meantime I’ll be holding down the fort here in Antalya and will do my best to keep you fully updated each week as Möbius gets closer and closer to hear launch date.
Thanks for joining us and please add any and all comments, questions, ideas and suggestions in the “Join the Discussion” box below.
-Wayne
Hi Wayne,
Thank you for the update and the tech talk with regard to the rudder. Looking forward to the battery one and any others that may be brewing.
When do you expect Möbius to launch?
Big crate o’batteries? Brand guess: F*****y?
20 x 116Ah @ 12V, 1160Ah @ 24V? 27.8 kWh nominal? Not bad!
Good guesses Andy but you don’t have the right battery count or Ah. I really am working as hard as I can on getting the whole post written to go through all the details for the whole electrical system on XPM78-01 and will make everything very clear there. For now I can tease you with a few more clues to use and tell you that the total Ah of the House Bank is 1350Ah @ 24V = 32.4kWh But we’re in “heated agreement” that this is definately “not bad!” at all. 🙂
My bad. 18pcs, 6s3p config, 18 * 1800 Wh = 32.4 kWh. Correct?
Though this makes splitting the bank harder challenge, if not split 3 ways. And with those batteries, you do want to split the bank me thinks, not only for redundancy, but also so that one can be slowly trickled to full SOC once every week/few weeks while other(s) are in bulk acceptance region.
Actually, it might even be better to have three banks, though it makes setup bit more complex for sure.
Then you can always have two “active” banks hanging around between maximum 20% – 80% SOC but more likely between 50%-80% sweet spot where the charge acceptance and efficiency are high and vacuuming all the electrons that solar panels can offer, and the have one trickling slowly towards 100% SOC, maybe via DC-DC charger from the other banks or even via inverter driven smart charger. This way you get best of both worlds, you can harvest all the solar energy available with charge acceptance to spare, and still baby your battery at least weekly to full 100% SOC.
While on passage, this is non-issue as you can trickle charge all banks to full SOC, but while hanging on the hook for long periods, this is what I would do.
Hmm. I do wonder how this chemistry reacts to hot parallelising and anti-parallelising?
I mean could you disconnect one third of the bank at the time once a week or so, bring it to full SOC for a night, then discharge it to roughly same voltage as “main bank”, and then just bring them parallel again. Would make setup much simpler, and then also would bring isolating a potentially bad cell easy as a bonus.
This way every cell would experience full charge regularly, without need of bringing the whole bank full with charge acceptance penalty, and battery life would be maximised.
And “only” 20 x 34kg, so 680 kg total? I was promised “a ton” of batteries! 🙂
One more clue4U; 835kg total.
Still not a ton but closer and worked out even better in our hydrostatic testing.
Stay tuned…………….
Maybe I am still not warm. 18 x 42.6 kg is “only” 766.8 kg. I will stay tuned for sure!
And my guess on price for battery system I made ages ago, 10 large, is not that far from truth, at least list price wise.
Don’t recall your battery system but ours came in at $9k. Sizable investment non the less and part of my rationale for going with the higher fault tolerance of these batteries to increase the probability that they will make it through their expected cycle life.
Regarding the junction boxes, very nice work outside with clear routing and cable markings! As you said, makes working with them so much nicer, years after the installation.
Inside though, I would not tie all the wires into one giant bundle with cable tie, as this makes adding, removing and replacing wires neatly almost impossible afterwards. Rather I would leave them freely untied, and use cable routers and covers to keep them in place. Makes working with them so much nicer, especially if you have to replace a wire from the cabinet. Opening that giant bundle is… just painful.
Good example, even if it is a much larger cabinet, but idea is the same:
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fa/BMA_Automation_Allen_Bradley_PLC_4.JPG
Hi Andy. Very busy with the build here I’m behind with my responses to comments on all the blogs and forums.
For the larger electrical distribution panels we wire them very similar to the photo you linked to using standard PVC slotted wire ducts, but in these smaller junction boxes there is no room or need for the slotted ducts as the threaded glands provide very secure mounting. As for future changes adding or removing wires from these junction boxes it is still very easy in my experience and if it is adding just a single wire or two then I often just route this on top of the existing bundle with a few new zip ties. If it requires removing some or adding more than a few new wires, then zip ties are cheap and easy to snip off and replace. None of the zip tied bundles in these junction boxes have that many wires in them and they all sit nicely in place if/when you cut off their zip ties so adding/removing wires goes pretty quickly.
I’ll feature more details of the larger distribution panels, both AC and DC once we start installing them and you can see what you think about those.
Thanks,
Wayne
You mention keeping aluminium rudder electrically isolated from rest of the hull.
– Why is this an issue to start with, isn’t the hull and rudder same material and alloy and will get the same anti-corrosion coating?
– Corrosion wise, wouldn’t it then be beneficial to keep them as close as possible electronically, ie. strongly bonded together with low resistance path?
– Also if you wanted to keep them isolated, then would they not connect via the steering cylinders, or is there going to be similar isolating strong plastic spacer there as well?
Re the rudder/hull construction:
1. Correct, the rudder is build using the same alloys as the hull so no material differences and yes, it will receive the same Foul Release paint as the hull.
2. I like to keep components separated so I can deal with them individually so having the rudder be on its own electrically does this. Admittedly a “belt and suspenders” approach but that’s what we’re doing throughout the boat so this is all in synch with our overall priorities and build. Yes, both the hull and the rudder will be held at the same potential.
3. Steering cylinders would are normally electrically isolated by their packings and seals so there is not usually any electrical connection between the rudder/tiller arm and the metal parts of the steering cylinders.
Corrosion and grounding is a big and complex topic but is also a very big part of making any aluminium boat well protected and trouble free so we do everything possible to achieve electrical isolation and proper grounding of both AC and DC onboard.
Wayne
I must politely disagree on this.
Two pieces of metal that are submerged to same conductive liquid, ie. seawater, are not forming a galvanic pair only and only if they are perfectly isolated electrically, that is have isolation resistance in many many megaohms range. In practise, this is hard to achieve and very near impossible to maintain, so only practical solution to prevent this galvanic pairing from forming is to ensure they have same electric potential within millivolt level. This will happen only, if they are strongly bonded together with very low resistance path, ie. bonding wire of sufficient cross section. And after ensuring this very strong low resistance bonding and equal potential, this combination can then be properly protected with similarly strongly bonded sacrificial anode.
What I mean is galvanic protection between two bodies only works, if they are either fully isolated or fully bonded. In practise, it is very very very hard to maintain this absolute strong isolation, so strong bonding is much much lower risk. I mean you could equip a rudder with its own galvanic anodes etc, but there is always some risk present on some galvanic stray current finding a way to creep between the hull and rudder system, and causing problems.
And I would not count seals or packings much for isolation, not on on a boat with moisture and all sorts of contaminants present. For that a thick plastic type isolating bushing would be needed.
Also leaving the rudder – being 100% same material – isolated brings no advantages I could foresee, only potential risks if this isolation fails and becomes non perfect.
When a part is of different metal/alloy, like prop, shaft, valve, engine etc, then it is a different situation and discussion altogether. And for these, there is not one good solution that would work every time, especially on a aluminum boat. For example, leaving the prop shaft isolated can and has caused spark corrosion inside the bearings and subsequent bearing failure.
When is your estimated launch date / completion date ? How is the engine progressing?
Thanks for your interest in “splash date” Nigel and Carl. As you can appreciate, it is always a difficult and moving target to estimate Launch Date of a brand new boat design but we are aiming to first launch by end of December and then a few months of extended sea trials in this eastern end of the Med before heading West, hopefully by March or so. Time will tell so stay tuned and we will all see how the timing works out, but this is the timing we’re aiming for.
-Wayne